EL CAMINO 273 r&p replace

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64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
5,695
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Upstate NY
I think u misunderstood me it works but ,I guess it freewheels because of the 1500 stall conv ,i can’t explain it’s not something that i’m Too familiar with,I wish I just had a 4 speed stick or a tremac ! ,the transmission guy said the rear needs to be lower for it all to work ! ,I guess ? Not my field of endever !

OK, I understand, the converter is in stall when cruising. That won't happen with a well designed setup. What you have presently is not well designed IMO and you are suffering with it. I say this based on your comment that the converter is stalling when cruising at 1500 - 1500 - who cruises at 1500 - almost any performance converter is going to react the same way - POOR DESIGN/SETUP. It's very popular to have the same thoughts that you're having presently - swap to a manual. The issue though, is your setup is poor and the current components are not working together as they should. Keep in mind that the 200-4R is the preferred trans for your car according to most (not all).

Sounds like you've already spent the money on the trans swap and you're willing to change rear gearing, so you are almost to the point of resolving your issue. We need some info to get this working better :

Rear tires size, i.e. 225/60R15, etc;
Engine specs - preferably where your motor cruises best, but supply all of the motor info possible including cam specs if available;
Converter dead stall speed - what rpm does your converter stall at from a stop;
Converter flash stall speed - the rpm that the engine climbs to when driving/cruising if you stomp on the throttle.

If you get me this info, then I'll run these numbers through a road speed calculator (that I can give you as well if you have Excel). From there we can get your engine running at the best rpm at the normal road speeds. Once you have your rear and converter working together it will feel like you just added another 100-150 HP - I PROMISE.

p.s. - on another note, your method for determining your rear gear ratio leads to alot of inaccuracies. Popping the cover off is pretty darn quick and easy to confirm exactly what you have.
 

Crazy4elkys

Apprentice
Dec 3, 2017
60
75
18
Upper SC
I have a new in the box 342 Richmond ring and pinion for a 7.5 I'll sell for $125
At the time of purchase I didn't now the difference in a 7.5 and 8.5
Located 29322 SC
 

bill cook

Apprentice
Apr 22, 2016
62
12
8
OK, I understand, the converter is in stall when cruising. That won't happen with a well designed setup. What you have presently is not well designed IMO and you are suffering with it. I say this based on your comment that the converter is stalling when cruising at 1500 - 1500 - who cruises at 1500 - almost any performance converter is going to react the same way - POOR DESIGN/SETUP. It's very popular to have the same thoughts that you're having presently - swap to a manual. The issue though, is your setup is poor and the current components are not working together as they should. Keep in mind that the 200-4R is the preferred trans for your car according to most (not all).

Sounds like you've already spent the money on the trans swap and you're willing to change rear gearing, so you are almost to the point of resolving your issue. We need some info to get this working better :

Rear tires size, i.e. 225/60R15, etc;
Engine specs - preferably where your motor cruises best, but supply all of the motor info possible including cam specs if available;
Converter dead stall speed - what rpm does your converter stall at from a stop;
Converter flash stall speed - the rpm that the engine climbs to when driving/cruising if you stomp on the throttle.

If you get me this info, then I'll run these numbers through a road speed calculator (that I can give you as well if you have Excel). From there we can get your engine running at the best rpm at the normal road speeds. Once you have your rear and converter working together it will feel like you just added another 100-150 HP - I PROMISE.

p.s. - on another note, your method for determining your rear gear ratio leads to alot of inaccuracies. Popping the cover off is pretty darn quick and easy to confirm exactly what you have.
I’m out of state now ,will be in NY in May ,for the summer,I will get back too you then,I really need to get this right and done,thanks the for the response !
 

64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
5,695
1
12,175
113
Upstate NY
I’m out of state now ,will be in NY in May ,for the summer,I will get back too you then,I really need to get this right and done,thanks the for the response !

pm me and remind me of the thread when you're back around - where abouts in NY? It's nice to see someone else help paying my taxes lol.

Jim
 

bill cook

Apprentice
Apr 22, 2016
62
12
8
OK, I understand, the converter is in stall when cruising. That won't happen with a well designed setup. What you have presently is not well designed IMO and you are suffering with it. I say this based on your comment that the converter is stalling when cruising at 1500 - 1500 - who cruises at 1500 - almost any performance converter is going to react the same way - POOR DESIGN/SETUP. It's very popular to have the same thoughts that you're having presently - swap to a manual. The issue though, is your setup is poor and the current components are not working together as they should. Keep in mind that the 200-4R is the preferred trans for your car according to most (not all).

Sounds like you've already spent the money on the trans swap and you're willing to change rear gearing, so you are almost to the point of resolving your issue. We need some info to get this working better :

Rear tires size, i.e. 225/60R15, etc;
Engine specs - preferably where your motor cruises best, but supply all of the motor info possible including cam specs if available;
Converter dead stall speed - what rpm does your converter stall at from a stop;
Converter flash stall speed - the rpm that the engine climbs to when driving/cruising if you stomp on the throttle.

If you get me this info, then I'll run these numbers through a road speed calculator (that I can give you as well if you have Excel). From there we can get your engine running at the best rpm at the normal road speeds. Once you have your rear and converter working together it will feel like you just added another 100-150 HP - I PROMISE.

p.s. - on another note, your method for determining your rear gear ratio leads to alot of inaccuracies. Popping the cover off is pretty darn quick and easy to confirm exactly what you have.
I’m out of state now ,will be in NY in May ,for the summer,I will get back too you then,I really need to get this right and done,thanks the for the response !
I have a new in the box 342 Richmond ring and pinion for a 7.5 I'll sell for $125
At the time of purchase I didn't now the difference in a 7.5 and 8.5
Located 29322 SC
pm me and remind me of the thread when you're back around - where abouts in NY? It's nice to see someone else help paying my taxes lol.

Jim
long Island ,lake grove ! Oh by the way I had a 59 nailhead !
 
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airboatgreg

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 2, 2016
2,866
3,114
113
I have also been looking at the gear change but I went a Muncie M21 and have decided on converting to a 9" ford with a 373. I have built a bunch of rear ends back in the day and when you factor all the elements I feel this is the most reasonable conversion with an element of cool.
Buy once....Cry once
 

airboatgreg

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 2, 2016
2,866
3,114
113
GM did some funky stuff as mentioned before. It was all about the CAFE regulations and not about driveability
 

bill cook

Apprentice
Apr 22, 2016
62
12
8
I have also been looking at the gear change but I went a Muncie M21 and have decided on converting to a 9" ford with a 373. I have built a bunch of rear ends back in the day and when you factor all the elements I feel this is the most reasonable conversion with an element of cool.
Buy once....Cry once
And how do u convert a Ford to a chev hookup especially that type of rear !
 
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