Never done the swap, but having both a CCC car (1986 307 Olds G-body) and a TBI car (1993 D-body), the TBI is a bit more simplified in terms of how much "stuff" is attached to the engine, but slightly more expensive to service (cheap, but not as cheap as HEI).
It sounds like you have/have access to a truck 350 TBI, which would have a flat tappet valvetrain. That may or may not present problems as you've got many of the same cam lobe wear caveats you would have with an older engine.
Supposedly that was what bumped the truck engine up over 200 horsepower, apparently GM felt it was needed and more proven/rugged for truck applications. The 9C1 Caprices had a similar horsepower rating, and they also had a non-roller valvetrain, but supposedly an L98 Corvette style cam (?). When it's happy, and especially years ago, the 180 horsepower (300 ft/lb) roller cam 350 TBI in my car (roller cammed engines came in the full size B/D bodies, and F-bodies) feels like it's got a bit more than what it's rated at.
There were two intake manifolds, one specifically for the B/D body with a larger distributor hole. This was supposed to be for servicing the distributor in car, as the engines for that bodystyle were set back and under the firewall a bit. The Edelbrock intake available is the small distributor hole type, intended for the F-body (roller cam) engine or the truck/van (flat tappet). There shouldn't be any clearance issues in a G-body, so I don't see why the Edelbrock wouldn't work if you make the swap and feel inclined to add it.
EDIT: Due to the different intakes, there are two different distributors. Spectra/Richporter GM04 is the truck/van/F-body small hole type (would fit the Edelbrock intake), and GM32 is the full-size car, B/D Body distributor. As you would expect, the "GM32" is a little harder to find depending on where you look, for obvious reasons. Had to replace mine in the D-body because the base of the original corroded (common issue with this style). You have tiny screws holding the cap on, and the receiving threads fine pitched and made into the aluminum base. Be prepared to ream the holes out when the threads disappear gradually, and invest in tiny (5/32?) nuts for the backside.
If I had to guess, a lot of the 4.3L Monte Carlo stuff would be the missing link parts to make everything work. I have seen a few people doing this swap before here, so hopefully someone chimes in with more in depth information for you.