awesome ill take a look and give it a shotBonnewagon said:Check the governor. Had that happen on a trip to Pittsburgh, kept downshifting. Shop there said a bit of clutch facing had flaked off and was keeping the governor from allowing the trans to upshift properly. He cleaned it out and changed the filter for like $50. He also said cars that sit still for a long time tend to suffer this condition. Also last time I had a T-350 built I asked how much-the guy said, there's 2 kinds of rebuilds, the $200 kind and the $800 kind. I said I wanted it to last 150,000 miles again. He said that would be the $800 kind. This is a governor and it has a spring clip holding the cover on. The weights fly out and pull on the shaft, opening/closing ports in the valve body.
350 turbo lockup soleniod & 3rd gear issue
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I should have added that on the T-350C there is a high gear switch inside the pan on the valve body. It will not allow lockup unless it is in high gear, and that is in addition to the other hoops in place like the vacuum switch, brake switch, temperature switch, which all must be satisfied before allowing lockup.
so basically i could have a bad switch somewere? I know the brake switch is fine or else i wouldnt have brake lights. The temp switch is basically run to that dumbass light in the dash and it has never come on on me. the only vacuum switch on the motor that ive seen is next to the temp switch but its busted and has been since i got the car. it never had any affect that i could tell with how the car acted or performed. i can check the switch in the transmission but i only saw one set of wires running across the valve body. Is that the lockup solenoid or the switch?Bonnewagon said:
What make? Anyway I have an '81 Chevy manual. No temp switch on a Chevy in '81. It shows a stop lamp/cruise ctl/brake release switch that cuts off lockup when you apply the brakes. Then there is a fender mounted vacuum switch w/vacuum delay valve tee'd into the charcoal canister vacuum line that wants to see high manifold (cruising) vacuum to lockup and releases at low vacuum (accelerating). Finally inside the trans pan is a converter clutch solenoid that energizes in 3rd gear, and is told so by a governor oil pressure switch that closes when vehicle speed exceeds 24-30 mph (3rd gear). So assuming all the other stuff is working, it could be the governor causing BOTH problems. I'd have that governor checked out.
I got an 81 olds supreme with the Buick 6 banger out of a 84 Regal with about 40,000 less miles than the one that was in it. when i changed the motor, the car sat for a little over 2 months until i finally had the money to put another motor in it. yea all those vacuums your mentioning, my car never had, lol Mine has the fender mounted cruise module were the speedo cables go into, a few vacuum lines and 2 or 3 plugs. ill take a look at it tomorrow and see what i can come up with.Bonnewagon said:
OK well there are two things that you can do. One is to find the governor, remove the clip/cover, pull it out and check for debris/clean it. That may cure everything. If that does not fix the lockup feature than aside from checking/replacing all the above mentioned items, you can hot wire the lockup solenoid to a button on the dash. The two wires that plug into the trans are merely 12v pos and a ground. I once did it by running 12 v to the trans and the ground back to the brake switch then a dash button then ground. That way I could lock it up when I wanted yet pressing the brake still unlocked it. I found that the lockup was good for maybe 300 rpm at speed and of course the trans runs cooler without the slippage.
From the net---" The governor can be removed with the transmission in the car. Remove the cover then governor itself by pulling out and turning 1/8 turn counter clockwise. In a TH-350, and 700-R4 first remove the cover clip, and the governor itself. The location of the governor on a TH-350 is behind this cover. Allow time for transmission to cool before starting work."
ok got ya. i wasnt able to check it out today due to rain but ill try it out this weekend hopefully and see what i can do
just figured id ask this while im on here but does anyone have a wire diagram for the lockup solenoid wiring in the car and in the transmission?
ok so it wasnt as wet as i thought outside so i went ahead and popped the cover off and pulled the governor out. Its was a little dirty but not bad. looked alot like the pan. a little haze of grey. While i was doing that i also figured id go ahead and make the lock up manual. I cliped the wires as close to the fedner that i could and checked for continuity. I noticed nothing being shown on the screen 
Is that normal or should it be showing at least something? And if it doesnt show anything as far as continuity, is the solenoid bad? 
Is that normal or should it be showing at least something? And if it doesnt show anything as far as continuity, is the solenoid bad?
Book says, with a non digital ohm meter on M1 scale, 20-40 ohms depending on temperature. Open, coil is open, 0 ohms, diode or coil is shorted. Watch the polarity, it's easy to blow the diode.
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