350 turbo lockup soleniod & 3rd gear issue

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Bonnewagon said:
Book says, with a non digital ohm meter on M1 scale, 20-40 ohms depending on temperature. Open, coil is open, 0 ohms, diode or coil is shorted. Watch the polarity, it's easy to blow the diode.
:shock: uhhhh :puke: ok, well, lol, I had to call my dad to help me break this ^^^ down. Im not very good with an ohm meter, but i do know how to read voltage and with all that you just said, I was like :wtf: Over my head for sure, sorry to seem like a dumb *ss with this but im just trying to understand it. With the meter i got, it will beep if there is connection. And when i checked for a connection it didnt beep, so i checked the next setting down and it showed "0". so basically if its reading "0" with the plug still making connection to the solenoid, its bad, meaning that the solenoid could be bad or that there is no connection being made until theres some sort of power being put to it, kinda like a relay?
 
That's OK I have one like that too. If it didn't beep, it's an open circuit- but since there is also a high gear switch inside the pan, that test is invalid unless you drop the pan and bypass that switch, or get the car into high gear. The lockup solenoid is like any other solenoid, merely a coil of wire that when powered becomes an electromagnet and that closes/opens a fluid port that causes the converter to lockup. So unless you feel the need to open the pan for a filter change or something, I would just get the car on the road for a test. Test 1 would be does she make it into high gear now that the governor is clean? And if so then test 2 is does she lock up when the new manual button is pushed? If it gets into high gear, but does not lockup, then pulling the pan to check the solenoid is the next step. You will know if it locks up, a tachometer will show about a 300 rpm drop.
 
Bonnewagon said:
That's OK I have one like that too. If it didn't beep, it's an open circuit- but since there is also a high gear switch inside the pan, that test is invalid unless you drop the pan and bypass that switch, or get the car into high gear. The lockup solenoid is like any other solenoid, merely a coil of wire that when powered becomes an electromagnet and that closes/opens a fluid port that causes the converter to lockup. So unless you feel the need to open the pan for a filter change or something, I would just get the car on the road for a test. Test 1 would be does she make it into high gear now that the governor is clean? And if so then test 2 is does she lock up when the new manual button is pushed? If it gets into high gear, but does not lockup, then pulling the pan to check the solenoid is the next step. You will know if it locks up, a tachometer will show about a 300 rpm drop.
ok i ment to put pick up and forgot too but heres a few on what i found when i got into the trans pan for a fluid filter change. while i was in there, the governor was fine. It didnt look dirty. but the way the wires look, they're both the same color inside the trans but one goes to the solenoid and the other goes to the high gear switch, theres a black wire that goes from one to the other. On the outside, the wires that are on the harness are Pink and Light brown. Are they both power wires instead of being hot and ground? thats what its looking like to me. When i drive the car it does go into 3rd gear. But after driving for a bit, if i let off the gas, it will down shift to 2nd. Is the high gear switch not activating to allow lock up, or could there be something blocking the switch from allowing it to operated properly. Ill do some more looking and let ya know what i find.
 
heres some pics
 

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I'm having no luck finding the color codes for the converter clutch though my '83 Bonneville manual says the hot wire from the brake switch is purple, and the ground to the computer is tan/black, but I somehow remember them being green and blue or maybe that's just a brain fart. GM is very consistent on it's color codes. ?!? Could your pink be faded purple and light brown would be tan. Have you checked the adjustment on the TV cable? It's not just for downshifts, it manages line pressure too and the troubleshooting section mentioned delayed erratic shifting.
 
Bonnewagon said:
I'm having no luck finding the color codes for the converter clutch though my '83 Bonneville manual says the hot wire from the brake switch is purple, and the ground to the computer is tan/black, but I somehow remember them being green and blue or maybe that's just a brain fart. GM is very consistent on it's color codes. ?!? Could your pink be faded purple and light brown would be tan. Have you checked the adjustment on the TV cable? It's not just for downshifts, it manages line pressure too and the troubleshooting section mentioned delayed erratic shifting.
yes one of the wires coming off the break switch its purple and the other is pink with a black stripe. Is the pink with black strip a ground or hot wire that runs to the plug on the transmission? the 2 wires that are coming off the trans plug, i traced into the harness that comes out of the passenger side underneath the blower box. The colors that im understanding for these wires is ones pink and the other looks tan with maybe a black stripe but age has caused fading and smodging. Also when i was in the trans, I noticed both wires going to the possitve sides of both the solenoid and the switch
 
ok I found this off of google. Does this look like what your trying to explain to me because if it is ill use it.
 

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That looks about right, the tan/black is the ground and the pink and purple are the hot side. Lots of variations on the same thing- 12volts is sent to the brake switch, then to the solenoid. Pressing the brake releases the solenoid. The ground side goes to the computer, and when the other things satisfy the computer, it grounds the solenoid and you have lockup. (the computer almost always acts as a ground for components, it being impractical to handle high amps).
 
Awesome, Im a get started and post what i find out :bump:
 
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