One more thing to add just to be sure you are on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke, pull the driver valve cover and make sure both valves are closed (on the number one cylinder) when the air comes out the spark plug hole.
427 CHEV BB WONT START
- Thread starter KINGDADDY
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How fresh is this engine last BBC that sounded like poping corn just got a head job and the valve lash was way off cause some super mech. didnt know what they were doin. If you have air, fuel, spark, and you've r&r distributer a bunch of times u were bound to get it close once or twice try what these guys r sayin (I really like the time it with no plug gotta remember that) if it still doesn't run you gonna have to start lookin else where... PS did u get a multible timing ... timming chain and maybe line up the wrong dots (dont worry its been done) I hope you guy figure it out... good luck.
Yeah, the guy at the ' performance shop" is talking out of his *ss. The stoke of the engine isn't going to affect TDC.
Do exactly as the two above me described, and take it step at a time, it pays off when an old school engine fires gloriously back to life.
Summarized version of what they said...
1. Pull driver side valve cover, locate cylinder number 1 in firing order, And when the timing mark is TDC, check by visually checking the valves to make sure both are closed. (This puts you on the combustion stroke)
2.Obviously make sure the Cap is off of the dist, NOT THE ROTOR CAP!
3.Make sure the dist rotor cap is pointing towards your number 1 cylinder
With those three steps done exactly as we've all explained, there is no way you can be 180 out. And your dist is in perfect. This is all assuming you've actually done the timing chain right.
4. Check all of your plugs, make sure they aren't fouled beyond use.
5. Put the dist cap back on, depending on what style you're using, make sure the coil is hooked up correctly. Place your plugs back in the engine, and start from Cylinder number 1 on the DIST, and hook up the remaining plugs following the FIRING ORDER carefully. Tighten down the Dist tie-down only a-little, you should still be able to move the dist by hand and have some resistance.
And that should take care of your timing/spark issue's. If you still doesn't start then look-up the factory specifications for your model carb, EXAMPLE: for most Edelbrock Performers i think both mixture screws should be 5 turns out. Tune from there once the engine runs.
Do exactly as the two above me described, and take it step at a time, it pays off when an old school engine fires gloriously back to life.
Summarized version of what they said...
1. Pull driver side valve cover, locate cylinder number 1 in firing order, And when the timing mark is TDC, check by visually checking the valves to make sure both are closed. (This puts you on the combustion stroke)
2.Obviously make sure the Cap is off of the dist, NOT THE ROTOR CAP!
3.Make sure the dist rotor cap is pointing towards your number 1 cylinder
With those three steps done exactly as we've all explained, there is no way you can be 180 out. And your dist is in perfect. This is all assuming you've actually done the timing chain right.
4. Check all of your plugs, make sure they aren't fouled beyond use.
5. Put the dist cap back on, depending on what style you're using, make sure the coil is hooked up correctly. Place your plugs back in the engine, and start from Cylinder number 1 on the DIST, and hook up the remaining plugs following the FIRING ORDER carefully. Tighten down the Dist tie-down only a-little, you should still be able to move the dist by hand and have some resistance.
And that should take care of your timing/spark issue's. If you still doesn't start then look-up the factory specifications for your model carb, EXAMPLE: for most Edelbrock Performers i think both mixture screws should be 5 turns out. Tune from there once the engine runs.
thanks guys i walked into this thing thinking it was a no brainer but now with all the posts im thinking
#1 change my performance shop
#2 dig a little deeper
#3 never work on a motor that i dont know anything about(performance motor that is)
thanks again guys
the input really helps out a lot
#1 change my performance shop
#2 dig a little deeper
#3 never work on a motor that i dont know anything about(performance motor that is)
thanks again guys
the input really helps out a lot
Ok we havent herd anything from you whats the verdict does it fire did you come up with the prob. when do we get a sound bite lol hope you havent scraped and gone ont something else...
WELL DID EVERY THING AGAIN NOW WE HAVE
NEW TIMING CHAIN
NEW PLUGS ,WIRES,CAP,ROTOR
NEW HEI
WE DID GET IT FIRED WONT STAY RUNNING ACTING LIKE IT WAY RETARDED
NOW A CAM SWAP IS NEXT ON THE LIST,WE HAD A MY MACHINE SHOP GUY OVER HES BAFFED AS WELL, SET IT UP WITH HIM STILL SAME THING .SO POPS IS GOING TO KEEP MESSING THROUGH THE WINTER MY BUD IS GOING TO KEEP MESSING WITH IT IM DONE WITH IT I THINK SHES BLOWN
THANKS FOR THE HELP
NEW PROJECT IS A 454 4 BOLT WITH A 396 CRANK WOO HOO
NEW TIMING CHAIN
NEW PLUGS ,WIRES,CAP,ROTOR
NEW HEI
WE DID GET IT FIRED WONT STAY RUNNING ACTING LIKE IT WAY RETARDED
NOW A CAM SWAP IS NEXT ON THE LIST,WE HAD A MY MACHINE SHOP GUY OVER HES BAFFED AS WELL, SET IT UP WITH HIM STILL SAME THING .SO POPS IS GOING TO KEEP MESSING THROUGH THE WINTER MY BUD IS GOING TO KEEP MESSING WITH IT IM DONE WITH IT I THINK SHES BLOWN
THANKS FOR THE HELP
NEW PROJECT IS A 454 4 BOLT WITH A 396 CRANK WOO HOO
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