600 cfm carbs
- Thread starter Cutty1
- Start date
- Status
If the engine is dead stock, get the original carb rebuilt by a reputable local shop. There is no performance to be gained by swapping, and it will cost you far more in complexity and aggravation to get an aftermarket carb to work as the stock one affects so much more than fuel delivery. To swap it, you will have to eliminate the computer, change the distributor, add a lock up device for the torque converter, swap intake manifolds (if using a universal square flange carb), etc. Trust me, the computer Q-Jet may not be the best carb, but it is fully capable of meeting the needs of that engine. There are other things that are far more effective than swapping carbs if you are looking to improve performance. The best bang for the buck is swapping the rear end for one with a better gear ratio.
Also, remember that stock isn't always bad. There is plenty that can be done with the stock parts on these cars if you know what you are doing. The worst thing for performance is the 307 (or 305 or carb'd v6) engine itself and not the carb. That carb can work on a substantially more powerful engine if it is set up correctly and has a PROM chip burned to work with it. If you know what you are doing and find a good deal, an Olds 350 swap could be performed for about the same cost as a properly done swap to a new 600cfm universal carburetor. Add a better exhaust, better gearing, and a decent intake manifold later on and you would have a much better car. Plus, it's a bolt in using the stock 307 parts (except the exhaust manifolds, use the 350 pieces there). Paint it black and no one who is not an Olds guy will ever know.
Also, remember that stock isn't always bad. There is plenty that can be done with the stock parts on these cars if you know what you are doing. The worst thing for performance is the 307 (or 305 or carb'd v6) engine itself and not the carb. That carb can work on a substantially more powerful engine if it is set up correctly and has a PROM chip burned to work with it. If you know what you are doing and find a good deal, an Olds 350 swap could be performed for about the same cost as a properly done swap to a new 600cfm universal carburetor. Add a better exhaust, better gearing, and a decent intake manifold later on and you would have a much better car. Plus, it's a bolt in using the stock 307 parts (except the exhaust manifolds, use the 350 pieces there). Paint it black and no one who is not an Olds guy will ever know.
i just have motor from 86 307 non computer, the carb on there is re-manufactured but has dead spot, feels like it wants to stall, an theres a new fuel pump so.
Sounds like you need to adjust the secondary air valve spring and add some tension. The issue is that it most likely is too loose, allowing the valve to open earlier than the engine can support it, thus causing the bog. This is only relevant if the bog happens when going to WOT. If it is a different scenario, go ahead and post what it is doing and when. This will give us the data we need to help you troubleshoot the car. Also, did you change the distributor when you eliminated the computer carb? If it still had the computer distributor, it could be part of your problem.
i didnt change any of that it was in the car , that motor been in there for like 12 years.. an it at cold start, if i start it and drive away without it warming up alittle bit it bogs downs till it reaches higher rpm
You have a carburetor. It's normal for it to run like sh*t until it warms up. You may wish to adjust your choke, but even well adjusted it will still need to warm up a bit from cold before you take off. Only EFI engines run well from a cold start all the time.
I have a edelbrock 600cfm on stock intake with all the swap done and loving it just make sure u can tune the carb good when its done I get the same performance as stock just no comp
- Status
Similar threads
