Im putting together a sbc 350 Vortec with a mild cam... And was looking got a 350 turbo trans and is having no luck. A buddy said I can have his 700r trans, but it has no vacuum lines... How does the work cuz he said it came off a 350???
700r trans
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tci and b&m make kit to control the lockup ive seem them from 90 to 150 dollars depending on kit. also you need a tv cable and bracket also have to modify trans crossmember. its pretty easy but can get alittle pricey but you will have overdrive always a plus.
Dont know the year but I plan on putting a 2500 to 3000 stall and my rear end has 4.56 posi. I also have the g force crossmember. He told me it came out a monte ss.
Your friend is mistaken, 700r4's never came in any gbody. Hopefully its an 85 and newer. The first ones were the weakest ones.
No.... someone else had one put in a monte... by no means am i saying that its the factory trans. 
you can get good mileage out of that trans bc OD but not with 4.56 gears out back which kind of defeats using it. If you were going to race or stunt in the car I would skip over it bc the 200r4 way better. If you are just going to cruise the 700 is fine but consider getting lower rear gear or it could wear out very fast. If you want super firm shifts but more reliability the 4l60e and 4l80e are just redesigns that took the flaws of the 700r4 out but obviously it requires some electronics the 'e' at the end means a computer determines the shift point.
You've got two roads and two type of guys on here some going to tell you 'Go efi and computer' and other guys die hard oldschool going to say 'stay carbd up and manual valve body trans' and all that it really is on you. Sounds like just using the 700 could be way cheaper, but if it breaks it'll cost you the same $$$ in the end as you could have spent to just get a better more modern version of it and chip your car out. GL & choose wisely
You've got two roads and two type of guys on here some going to tell you 'Go efi and computer' and other guys die hard oldschool going to say 'stay carbd up and manual valve body trans' and all that it really is on you. Sounds like just using the 700 could be way cheaper, but if it breaks it'll cost you the same $$$ in the end as you could have spent to just get a better more modern version of it and chip your car out. GL & choose wisely
I may be wrong but I didn't think All the later g-body's got 200r4 transmissions. I DO think after 81 or so most got the 7004r. Check it out-83MONTESS- said:
If you are setting up a street strip kind of car with 4.56s for best quartermile & overdrive to make it streetable your are on a good track. The .70 overdrive will make the final drive ratio 3.19 for acceptable highway cruising rpms & mileage. You will also need to get a lock up switch for your lock up converter. Many online transmissions companys list them on their websites. With this you can inexpensively run up to a 3,000 stall converter and because of the lock up feature it will still lock up at lower rpms say for example 2,500 rpms for highway cruising eliminating slippage heat from your transmission & cooling system. It will also lower your rpms approximately another 200 rpms on the highway and is usually good for 1 mpg on the highway.
See you did not want that th350 anyway unless its strictly a race car. 8)
PS IMO The converter does not have to be expensive but get it from a converter company not Jegs B&M junk or the like. It should have anti balloning & be furnace brazed etc. $300 would be a good price last I checked. This is not the place to be stupid cheap in setting a car up to run hard and not have issues.
See you did not want that th350 anyway unless its strictly a race car. 8)
PS IMO The converter does not have to be expensive but get it from a converter company not Jegs B&M junk or the like. It should have anti balloning & be furnace brazed etc. $300 would be a good price last I checked. This is not the place to be stupid cheap in setting a car up to run hard and not have issues.
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