700r4 opinions and facts

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patmckinneyracing

Royal Smart Person
Jan 18, 2009
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San Antonio, TX
Anyone using these transmissions? You like'em, hate'em? Reason i ask is most of you remember the post that I snapped my driveshaft in half and basically screwed up the transmission, my floors, etc. So I've got a buddy of mine who has a 700r4 core, pretty much brand new driveshaft cut to length for specifically for a malibu, and a 4 speed b&m sport shifter for 150$. So I've looked into the 200-4r as well but it seems easier to build up a 700r4 and there's more parts I think than having to pay Art Carr stupid money for one of his. So I need opinions on what you guys think of this trans and also what is up with this switch I heard about?
 
I love the 700R4

Back before the 80s, and even 90s, you were best to stick with the non-overdrives like the TH350 or TH400, they could handle big power, while the 700r4 would barely cope with 250hp...

But now, you can build a 700r4 just as strong, or stronger, for really cheap... There is a huge demand now, and so there's lots of aftermarket support. Almost any shop can build these for you, even on a tight budget. There are tons of corvette internals you can use, and a range of choices for clutches, shiftkits, etc...

Just make sure you use a Loop cross member next time, to avoid destroying your car if the driveshaft snaps...

I am using a 700r4 with a "stage2" shift kit, with upgraded corvette spec'd internals. I am using a 3000rpm stall converter, with manual switch lockup. I have the shift points set up to shift at 4000rpm in drive, for cruising, and I shift it myself when I'm racing to get the extra rpms.

Right now, I made a makeshift extension to the crossmember to fit the transmision, but this summer I plan on welding proper tubing and adding a loop...

I'm still learning about transmisions, so I can't answer heavy tech questions, but I'm sure alot of guys on here will be able to help you out with a specifics!
 
the 700 r4 1-2 gear ratio is the biggest issue with them...1st gear is a 3:06 and 2nd is a 1:62 so you start off quick but hit a wall shifting to 2nd...it was great for the trucks that the transmission was designed for..the 200 4r can be easily built to take lots of HP and there are plenty of Grand Nationals out there running a 200 4r doing real quick 1/4 mile runs
 
you probably could but the machine shop cost would probably be more than a stage 1 200 4r that'll handle 400 hp....

here's the ratios of a 200 4r - 2.74 1.57 1.00 0.67

compared to a 700 r4 - 3.06 1.62 1.00 0.70
 
They may not be as ideal as a well built 200-4R but when you can find one thats built for cheap.. I say hell yes. Regardless is you have some acceleration gears in your car its way better than having to live with a 3 speed especially if you ever take your car up on the highway.
 
The main reason is I'm getting a deal on this trans with the proper cut driveshaft and shifter. So I'd rather just go with the 700r4. I need to know is about the other things I will need. I know there's a switch for the lock up but I'm confused on the wording. When you lock up the trans, does that mean your in 3rd or OD?

I want a 4 speed cause I've been running a 3 speed with my 3.73 gears driving 3 hours on the highway to college. I'm so fed up with high rpm's its driving me up a wall.
 
you are in 4th gear when it is locked,there are kits to do that.....i do not pretend to be a transmission guy, but go to bowtieoverdrives.com they have tons of info on their site
 
the lockup really isn't quote a gear thing unquote .... it's the converter that is locking up and yes this usually occurs in 4th gear cruising down the highway. Several companies make lockup kits for the 200-4r/700-r4. B&M, TCI, Painless. Just look on Summt. They'll probably have 5 or 6 to choose from. A TCC lock up can be as simple as a toggle switch to more complex devices that lockup as soon as it shifts to 4th and unlocks on downshift ... to some that have a built in delay. Honestly, you don't even have to hook up the TCC, but you'll have better highway manners and mileage. Installing into a G-body. The negatives are ... well a G-body was never designed for the 700, so custom crossmember, tailshaft and size (I've heard a few people say some massaging of the transmission tunnel with a hammer is needed (2nd hand info). They weigh more and aren't gearred like the 200-4r (as previously stated) .... where as a 200-4r uses the same driveshaft as your th350 and a factory crossmember is easy to find. Not really trying to sway you away (there will be no revisiting the SBC/SBO thing), if you got a deal great - go that way and be happy with it.
 
patmckinneyracing said:
The main reason is I'm getting a deal on this trans with the proper cut driveshaft and shifter. So I'd rather just go with the 700r4. I need to know is about the other things I will need. I know there's a switch for the lock up but I'm confused on the wording. When you lock up the trans, does that mean your in 3rd or OD?

I want a 4 speed cause I've been running a 3 speed with my 3.73 gears driving 3 hours on the highway to college. I'm so fed up with high rpm's its driving me up a wall.

With the switch operated manual control I have, I can lock it in any gear...
I forgot to mention, I am running the 700r4 backed with 3.42 gears in my GN rearend.

With this combo, I can cruise on highway at 2000rpm in lockup, and 2200 without lockup because of the stall.

Yeah, the 1st to 2nd shift is quite steep, but if you're running a big stall it's not very noticable. I would recommend using 3.73 gears in the rear, for a good acceleration/cruising combo.
 
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