I was trying to do some research on some transmissions and wanted to get a 200r4, but there aren't any around my area that I could find, so I was wondering if any 700r4 would work or is there any differences relating to the vehicle it came out of? There are a sh*t ton of 700r4's on Craigslist. Also, what gear ratios do the two have? I am torn and confused on what to get... And yes, I know that if I continue my research that I will find the info I want, but you guys don't understand, if I spend any time what so ever on anything that has to do with the GP my wife flips on me.. :?
700r4 question
- Thread starter jgrace84
- Start date
- Status
If your are building your car for performance go with a 200r4. If it is just a cruiser or you are gonna be pulling a heavy trailer, go with the 700.
Phoenyx said:
Dont tow serious with a 700r4. Its the one aspect that no matter how well you build a 700 it WILL still eventually burn up. Either go 4l80e or Allison.
That being said I personally like the 200 over the 700 by a long shot.
Yeah I've been looking for a 200r4 for what seems like forever. I just can't seem to find one. Maybe I'm not looking in the right place. Is there other vehicles that ran a 200r4 that I can snatch? I was just wondering about the 700 cuz it seems more plentiful around here. A friend of mine was selling his T-10 he has in his Elky, but then I realized it was a manual which I didn't know til i searched it. A little too much work for me and my wallet.
yeah, 700r4 are very plentyfull here too.
The 700r4 has a very short 1st gear, so it's good for quick acceleration off the line. However, the gap from 1st into 2nd is so huge, it really doesn't help overall performance. The gear ratios in a 200r4 are far better laid out. I'm pretty sure that both transmissions have the same ratio overdrive... so it really doesn't make a difference for cruising.
I run my 700r4 with 3.42 gears... I know some people who run 4.11s, but I imagine they run out of first gear WAY too quick.
You can build both 200r4s and 700r4s to take alot of torque... however, you'll never compete with a 4L80E
Physically, the 700r4 is 3" longer than the 200r4, so you will need to get a crossmember or modify your old one to fit... not too hard. And you will need to shorten your driveshaft.
hope that helps.
The 700r4 has a very short 1st gear, so it's good for quick acceleration off the line. However, the gap from 1st into 2nd is so huge, it really doesn't help overall performance. The gear ratios in a 200r4 are far better laid out. I'm pretty sure that both transmissions have the same ratio overdrive... so it really doesn't make a difference for cruising.
I run my 700r4 with 3.42 gears... I know some people who run 4.11s, but I imagine they run out of first gear WAY too quick.
You can build both 200r4s and 700r4s to take alot of torque... however, you'll never compete with a 4L80E
Physically, the 700r4 is 3" longer than the 200r4, so you will need to get a crossmember or modify your old one to fit... not too hard. And you will need to shorten your driveshaft.
hope that helps.
khan0165 said:
There are some other advantages too.
The 200r4 can shift into OD at WOT stock whereas the 700 needs a $100 or $150 kit in order to do so.
Also the ODs are not the same. Theyre not hugely different though. I believe the 700r4 is .73 and the 2004r is .67.
Your easiest snag to get a 2004r from is going to be a monte SS. All monte SS's had them 85 up I believe was the start of OD trans. Should be the same for all Elky SS's too
I had a dyno'd 425 RW HP 400 SBC and a mildly built 700R4 that I raced a little and used to tow my 20' boat for over 6 years without troubles. They CAN be built to be quite strong. Obviously, if you tow, don't go with a high stall converter, and make sure you have good cooling (I had a 4 core radiator with oversized transmission cooler portion).
However, for your intended use, Itoo would stick with a 2004R.
However, for your intended use, Itoo would stick with a 2004R.
83hurst-olds said:
83 is right. The 700r4 can be built strong and can be towed with. Its when you start to get into serious towing that they just cant hold up period any longer. And I mean like gooseneck, 5000lb + stuff.
You did not list your location in your profile. Something about building performance 200-4Rs is that it takes some knowhow & skill over and above the parts. I say this because its worth getting one from a professional shop that has proven their ability to build a 200-4R that will hold up. Also some warranty it so buying one and having it shipped to you from one of these shops is probably ideal anyway. I had success with one built by Lonnie Diers who now works at www.extremeautomatics.com They list a street strip 200-4R for 1,395 guaranteed to 500HP or 10.90 ETs with a one year warranty. But if you are going to use a big block or anything that will exceed 500 foot pounds of torque you should add the optional billet forward drum/shaft. I used it with the billet forward drum/shaft behind a 509ci Cadillac powered Cutlass that should have made about 570TQ. I also added a large transmission cooler & an inexpensive transmission temp guage. I would not use the 200-4R behind a heavy vehical like a pick up or to tow.
Oops, I thought my location was in my profile. I'm in Colorado Springs, stationed at Ft. Carson. I was trying to find a used 200r4, but can't find one that is somewhat cheap. My wife would absolutely kill me if I even tried to spend $1400+ on a transmission for the GP. She hates it enough as it is. I guess I might have to keep the search going. Hopefully I find something.. I hope.
- Status
Similar threads
