78 Grand Prix project

[G-Body_Vet]

Lookin good!

Thanks Blake!
Sorry I wasn't able to get a hold of you when I was up that way earlier this year. We were working 12's so I didn't have much time to spare.

 

[L.A.X-RATED]

what is your plan on the "curing" of the mani's?

 

[G-Body_Vet]

what is your plan on the "curing" of the mani's?

I don't have the VHT Flame-Proof paint can in front of me but from what I recall it says the paint isn't chemical resistant until they've been cured. The directions say you can either run them on the engine for 30 minutes or use an oven.

The baking method says heat at 250 degrees for 30 mins, cool down 30 mins. Then repeat at 400, then 600. I have an old oven I use for powder coating but I don't think it goes to 600. We have a heat treating oven at work so I was either going to use that, or just do the 2 steps at 250 & 400, then run them on the engine.

 

[L.A.X-RATED]

yeah i have the cans in front of me planning on using on my "temporary" bbc mani's,just thought you had another method.i was gonna throw them in a old bbq im not using anymore

 

[G-Body_Vet]

Whatever works! At one time I was using an old toaster oven for brackets and pulleys.

 

[G-Body_Vet]

No exciting pics today but I did get around to finally mounting the trans. Trans is a used/rebuilt BQ code 200-4R with a new D5 converter. It's not what I wanted to do originally but I'm racing the imminent cold weather clock and it will have to do for now.

As for mounting, if you've kept up with the thread you know that I have a TH-400 G-force crossmember that required a frame extension to mount in a pre-'83 frame. The factory 200-4R mount is offset and will not work. I compared a factory TH-400 mount and the holes to mount to the trans are slightly wider. I believe a TH400 mount with slotted ends could be used, such as one of the aftermarket poly units.

I got a tip from 84GP455 that worked perfect for this setup. Anchor PN 2672 bolts directly to the 200-4R and lines up perfectly with the G-force crossmember. I looked it up for a '90 4.3 S-10. I believe it's for a 700-R4. I hope this can help someone else going with this setup.

Looks like it's made in China! I left the sticker there so you can see the part number. You'll notice I anti-seize everything!

Mounted to the trans with the driver's side of the crossmember slid out of the way. It looks butted up against the pan but it's not.

Here's a view from underneath the crossmember before lowering the trans jack. Keep in mind I simply bolted the mount to the trans without any other adjustments and it lined up perfectly. The camera angle is off so it doesn't look centered but it is.

 

[pencero]

Good to see you making progress on the car you nearly axed. I had to make a tough decision and axe my white caddy project so I too could continue investing in the olds. Don't sleep on Indiana real estate during your property search. It's a further commute but the lower taxes are a huge break. A garage does not raise a property value much out here compared to chicago/burbs. Gun laws are also more lax here.

 

[G-Body_Vet]

Good to see you making progress on the car you nearly axed. I had to make a tough decision and axe my white caddy project so I too could continue investing in the olds. Don't sleep on Indiana real estate during your property search. It's a further commute but the lower taxes are a huge break. A garage does not raise a property value much out here compared to chicago/burbs. Gun laws are also more lax here.

Yeah man it's been a hectic past few years and finding time to work on the car is hard to come by. Illinois does suck in several aspects but I'm hesitant to leave only because I have specific veteran benefits for remaining an Illinois resident. It's reaching a point where it almost isn't worth it anymore.

 

[G-Body_Vet]

I found a good deal on a Hellwig rear sway bar so here it is. I did it in a couple of hours using jack stands. Probably much faster if you have a lift.

I know some people aren't particularly crazy about drilling into their cars (including me!), but it is required to install this bar. Only two holes need to be drilling to mount these brackets for the end links. I highly suggest using several pilot bits before drilling the final hole. Directions suggest a 17/32" bit. I used a 1/2" bit for the final hole and it was fine. It was only 1/32" smaller anyway.

Mock-up and hole drilled.

Here it is mounted

Unlike traditional g-body bars that bolt to the trailing arms, these mount to the rear end via u-bolts and brackets. Note that the u-bolts interfere with the brake lines and they will need to be altered. Luckily mine are new and pliable NiCopp so no issues for me here. You want to leave the u-bolts loose until your upper brackets are drilled and mounted. I also measured several areas for the best centering possible before drilling. This includes equal clearance on each side of the bar.

The directions will tell you to use the center hole on the sway bar while mounting the upper bracket (as pictured). Once mounting is complete, the furthest outboard hole is recommended for initial/street configuration. One thing I didn't mention is that you have to assemble the end links and install the bushings. It's idiot proof but a vice makes it easier insert the bushings.

Here is the finished product. If you look closely you can see my u-bolts are slightly canted in order to clear my rear end cover drain plug. The directions will also recommend this for additional clearance if need be. The goal is to have the bar parallel to the ground once you have weight on wheels. Additional adjusting will most likely be needed once it's back on the ground.

 

[G-Body_Vet]

This will be the last time I change drum brakes! Next time I'll be upgrading to disc.