79 cutlass calais "re-restore"

Status
Not open for further replies.

SMSC27

Apprentice
Oct 17, 2013
69
3
8
Delmar, delaware
Been jumping from project to project on the car all day/night. Got the rear under the car, threw on my cobra r's to see what I can do for wheel width/tire size, started messing with some ideas for the upper control arms, pulled out my back seat and threw my turbocoupe's back seat in, tossed the full power tc seat in the driverside, messed with paint on my valve covers and started scrubbing my intake so I can paint it.

So first, the rear and wheel/tire situation.. the gbody lower control arms line up almost perfectly, just had to shove them around a little, to get the bolts through the brackets. The tops, both off by half an inch, so I'm debating on making tubular uppers that have an 's' bend to them. Other option is to cut the mounts off the frame and relocate them, but that'd screw me if I ever needed to put the 10 bolt back in, for any reason. As far as the wheels/tires go, my 17x9 actually fits, but the tire is too close and will rub any time I corner. At first I was thinking it was hopeless, but when I actually put the rear in and bolted the wheel up, I noticed a small change in tire width would go a long way. The wheel currently has a 275/40R17 on it, but with a 270/40R17, I'd be in the clear with a rolled and trimmed lip. The small reduction in the tire width, with same aspect ratio of 40 will reduce tire width and height just enough to make everything happy.

Surprisingly, I have to do little to nothing to my rear tc seat, to make it fit nicely. Add a little foam padding to the sides, to fill in the little gap between the interior panels in the seat and trim a little off the back of the frame of the lower cushion, so it will slide back far enough. It surprisingly looks really good in the car. I threw it in there to screw with a couple of my buddies and my jaw hit the floor once I got it in. It even matches the dark carpet perfectly. The driver seat track fits right down on the front 2 studs in the floor, have to weld a little piece to the rear of the tracks, for them to line up. Full power, 6 way adjustable(seat back is manual) with power lumbar.. I sat in it and it just feels so right in there.. the bolster needs a little work to be fixed, but otherwise it's nearly perfect. I just don't know if I like them better with or without the headrest. I think without the headrest, it gives the interior a bit more of a muscle car feel. I just have to dig through what's left of the tc's stock body harness and pull out the power seat wiring, switches and relays, so I can run a power feed to them and figure out where to mount the controls.

I was going to leave my valve covers all black and maybe take the paint off the letters, but then I came up with the idea pf painting the raised portion with the 'aluminum' paint I picked up for my intake. I like it a lot more than I originally thought I would.

I'll be back at it again tomorrow, hopefully with at least a functioning driver seat and the rear all wrapped up, minus brakes. Need to get all new brake lines and run a bigger line from the proportioning valve. Also have to switch the proportioning valve to 1 meant for 4 wheel disks. But unril then, pics of todays progress and a couple of the motor, since I don't think I posted any










 

marcar1993

G-Body Guru
Aug 31, 2007
702
209
43
New Jersey
For the 8.8 swap, you can go with the trick chassis upper control arm kit. It comes with relocation upper brackets, new adjustable control arms and you need spherical housing ends in the ears.
I'm about to get into putting an sn 8.8 in my car. Have the rear almost completely buttoned up.
Those 17x9's are clear on the inside on the frame but not the outside lip? Whats the backspace on them if you don't mind me asking?
 

SMSC27

Apprentice
Oct 17, 2013
69
3
8
Delmar, delaware
The wheels have a 7" backspace. If I put 270/40's on the rear, I'll clear fine with a rolled lip. Since I have to do quarters, I'm going to trim the lip back a little and roll it, so I'll clear no matter what. As far as the upper arms go, I'm going to make a pair of tubulars. First, I'm going to see if I can fit a mounting plate in there, without having to touch my factory 10 bolt mounts. I cut, angled and welded my flimbsy stock arms to get the car back on the ground and out of the garage.. I have a LOT of cleaning to do, but I can't do it with 2 cars in the garage.. wish I could take the bird out, too, but she has no front susp or a rear under her now. I'll probably jump back on this rusty pig on Saturday or Sunday and get the rear done. I have to cut off the quad shock mounts, because they hit the frame on both sides, which made it super easy to square the rear under the car. Hoping to grab another head friday, get porting and hopefully have the motor all together by early next week. I still have a little work to do with the rack, like shortening the driverside inner tierod and re-tapering the spindles. Also have to replace the hardlines on the rack, since a couple of them were bashed around, from me not worrying about it, since I didn't originally plan on reusing it in anything. I really need to figure out how I'm doing the front brakes. I want the wilwood 4 piston calipers on all 4 corners, but I need to at least match the 11" rear rotors or do something a little bigger.
 

SMSC27

Apprentice
Oct 17, 2013
69
3
8
Delmar, delaware
I also need to start working on finding a set of torque thrust 2's. I'm going to need my cobra r's back for the bird, once the cutlass is at the very least drivable.
 

SMSC27

Apprentice
Oct 17, 2013
69
3
8
Delmar, delaware
Having a hell of a time getting the garage cleaned up. Finally got all my scrap metal together, at least. Might make a run to get rid of it tomorrow and throw that money into getting another head. The less money I have to spend out of pocket, the happier I am. also need to pick up new carbide bits and sand paper rolls, so I can get started on porting. Also going to unshroud the intake valves a little, to help boost flow past the valves and into the cylinders. It'll also bring down my compression a little, hopefully making 'plus' an exceptable fuel choice. I estimate my compression ratio should drop down to around an even 10:1 with a little chamber polishing and the unshrouding. If I could find a valve seat cutter I could rent or borrow, I'd bump up to the intake valves out of the 350 heads I'm getting ready to scrap (keeping the valves, springs and retainers out of them, just in case). The 305 heads have 1.84 intake valves and the 350 heads sport 1.92's (unless I got the last digit backwards). OR I could check the 2.02 valves that I pulled from a pair of gt40p explorer heads I have, to see if they'd work. The stems look about the right length, but I'd have to measure to be sure. But I'm figuring at least a good 3 days worth of working the ports on the heads and intake, before I'm ready to start dropping parts on the shortblock. Also need to test fit the head I have tomorrow, to see if my pushrods are the right length for my new 1.6 rockers. Hoping they are, because I'd like to turn the key and hear a roar from between the framerails again. Only real update to any actual work I've done, aside from pulling my hair out trying to clean the garage is, I painted my intake and headers. I'm not happy with intake at all. It looks cheap and trashy, so I'm going to grab some rustoleum 'stainless' paint tomorrow and see how that looks. It's a lot closer to what the original edelbrock finish looks like. Never-the-less, here's a pic of the intake in it's current state and the headers


 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

SMSC27

Apprentice
Oct 17, 2013
69
3
8
Delmar, delaware
2 small updates.. been porting my *ss off. Unshrouded 2 cambers so far, they measure out to 65cc now, so about 9.4-9.5:1. Also, the plan for boost may be back on. Stay tuned for updates on that. But if I do go boost, I'll open up the chambers to 67-68cc, to drop the ratio a little more, so I can run 7-8lbs safely.. crossing my fingers

 

SMSC27

Apprentice
Oct 17, 2013
69
3
8
Delmar, delaware
Just a teaser.. I still have a ton of work to do

 

SMSC27

Apprentice
Oct 17, 2013
69
3
8
Delmar, delaware
Been pretty busy lately, between side jobs and getting my blaster ready to sell. But finally got back on this pig. Change of plans, as far as heads go. Doing cab corners and inner/outter rockers for a buddy of mine in exchange for his dart iron eagles, which will work out a hell of a lot better. In the meantime, just trying to get things done, so I can have a running car, once I get the heads.








 

SMSC27

Apprentice
Oct 17, 2013
69
3
8
Delmar, delaware
i haven't been able to post any updates, since the forums go retard crazy on my phone and i NEVER get on the computer.. the motor is basically (temporarily) done, with junk 882 heads. she runs great, i just have to do a little tinkering. it starts to flutter at 6lbs, from fuel starvation, so i have to pull my carb off and go through it. but all in all, everything is good so far. i'll be tossing my stock mechanical pump soon, and putting a 255lph walbro in the tank, with a regulator on the firewall, with a return line. also killed my alt when i took it for a ride yesterday, so that's on the 'to do' list for today. using a smaller, higher output alt, that'll keep up with the electric pump and fan. i'll post the couple videos i took, once i upload them to youtube

11108219_10155404485515335_6378403949205239106_n.jpg
988518_10155404485775335_3713840978846865603_n.jpg
11149119_10155404486015335_4252213668305935737_n.jpg
11133909_10155326667690335_4275180352726916532_n.jpg
11084279_10155284915520335_216240831786627220_n.jpg
 

SMSC27

Apprentice
Oct 17, 2013
69
3
8
Delmar, delaware
I have been on hiatus with this poor car, for quite some time. I melted a rod bearing, due to oil starvation and put the car off until a few days ago. Decided to drag it back in and build it better, this time around. Still sticking with the stock bottom end, but changing cam, converter and a couple other things. But first things first, I jumped on rust repair. Since no one offers full quarters for a 78-80 cutlass, I had to make my own patch around the quarter glass. Still a little finishing work to do, but it's a million times better than what I started with.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20160225_012518233.jpg
    IMG_20160225_012518233.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 197
  • IMG_20160221_224723649.jpg
    IMG_20160221_224723649.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 210
  • IMG_20160221_231740917.jpg
    IMG_20160221_231740917.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 224
  • IMG_20160223_212303798.jpg
    IMG_20160223_212303798.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 224
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor