79 Cutlass Wiring Harness Questions

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That is about the biggest electrical octopus that I ever did see. Seems to be showing two leads with black stripes as well as a bunch of just reds, or what they would have been on day one. Not sure how I would go about tracing that. One wire would definitely have been attached to the #10 stud on the alternator and the others going wherever, but the two strippers, always thought that thin black line indicated a ground. Gotta wonder................................



Nick
If youre talking about the orange wires they were part if the interior harness in a mid 80s Monte. I think they might have been part of a light circuit but I might be wrong.
 
yeah 80s GM wiring is something else. especially working on TBI and TPI stuff.

after messing with those systems and LS wiring for years, it's nice to go back and mess with this 70s stuff before computers...
 
Almost ready to test out the finished harness.

also wanted to share the old KEM rotor that was in the old ACDelco distributor; don't think this brand is around anymore.
 

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added the fusible links to the harness. copied what mikester did pretty much; one wire was 10 and one was 12, so i used one of the 16GA links i got earlier and then got the 14GA link. Part #: 784696

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the wires are connected into a 10GA butt connector with dialectric grease inside, crimped, then covered with heatshrink and wrapped in electrical tape.
same process will be done to the ring connector once i put it together. i ended up finding a couple very small tears in the insulation further up; i sealed them up the same way.
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if anything looks jacked up just lemme know
 
starter wiring is finished. The ring terminal is lubed and crimped, and then double sealed with heatshrink. the electrical tape at the end is just a precaution to keep the two wires from fraying or splitting the heatshrink.

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this was the last part of the harness that needed work, and the weather is finally getting nicer, so hopefully tomorrow i can make enough progress to get the harness tested with a multimeter in the car.
 
was able to get the right starter for it after a few fails, thanks ELCAM. i live in the middle of bufu nowhere so going to parts stores isnt something i can do every day, especially with gas prices right now.

got the starter in the car, and got the harness wires in a good position. it was late and dark by the time i got them situated so i'll have to take pics tomorrow, but they should be basically in the factory position.

they go down through the little ring mounted by the corner of the head, and then i have them tucked along the top of the solenoid. should be far enough from the header.

still trying to figure out how to route the battery cable. right now I have it going along the frame, under the PS pump. the lug isn't ideal, i think i need to bend it a bit so it stops pressing against the block and messing with the smaller starter wire.

really just trying to make sure these wires don't fry. messing around with these wires, the starter, and the headers is a mess.

if anybody got a foolproof method for positioning this sh*t and getting the header in without too much headache, please share lol. i'd really like to keep the starter mounted and wired and then install the header. i can't even imagine how I'd attach the wires with the header in the way, was bad enough disconnecting em

will update tomorrow with pics/progress.
 
Just seen this thread.

You’re harness is typical of the 3 G’s I’ve spent 100’s of hours wiring.

Often it is easiest to put the wires on the starter posts before installing the starter. You can leave the wires loose so that the eyelets rotate on the posts. Then tighten after the starter is installed.

FWIW, I do away with all fusible links. I install maxi fuses in line in an easily accessible area.

Good luck - Jim
 
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got everything mounted and wired up. was working alone so I sandwiched the starter between the block and the header's collector, keeping the header from falling out with a little bit of rope.

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wire for the battery comes in from between the frame and engine mount, far from the exhaust and any spinning parts.

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The wires from the harness are pretty much how I described previously, they're also pretty far from the exhaust now.

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not the best angles i know but u get the idea. all the wires are wrapped in heat shielding for extra protection.

typing this up while taking a break because laying upside down on gravel ****in around with all the wires and bolts and sh*t was pretty annoying after a bit...

everything is pretty much ready to try and drop the battery in and give it a crank.
 
Just seen this thread.

You’re harness is typical of the 3 G’s I’ve spent 100’s of hours wiring.

Often it is easiest to put the wires on the starter posts before installing the starter. You can leave the wires loose so that the eyelets rotate on the posts. Then tighten after the starter is installed.

FWIW, I do away with all fusible links. I install maxi fuses in line in an easily accessible area.

Good luck - Jim

I was thinking of doing the 'ford trick' i do on all the chevys I've worked on - relocating the starter solenoid to the firewall and running the harness/battery cabling to it. Then you just run the necessary cables down to the posts on the starter out of the way.

makes it a lot easier to protect the wiring and access it. also makes it so that the only time power is going thru those cables is during cranking.

Was planning on doing the same thing here, but there's far less room to work with cause of the driver side starter.
 
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