81 Olds Bracket Car

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Yav8

Master Mechanic
Aug 19, 2014
283
126
43
78
Manitowoc wis.
I thought I would start this one on the Bracket car build. I had posted before that a nice 81 I got my hands on to do another build. It came with a 305 motor with headers and duel exhaust and a rebuilt th350 trans and a open rear end. It had a console shifter that was replaced with some piece of junk that wouldn't shift the transmission. Got a new B/M shifter for the turbo 350 and got that in last week. Now the cars mover so its easer to drive it to the hoist and get the other things done. Tonight the upgraded rear end was installed, not a big deal because I had done the same to a Regal a few years back. Got a Torrison posi from a 2000 Camaro and a set of Moser axels to go with the 28 spline posi. I also got a cover for the back with the main cap bracing to help keep things together. I also got the tach in but not hooked up yet. QUESTION is there a easy way to find the wire for the neutral safety switch under the dash, I know it had to be some where from the factory. switch
 
on my 85 I found the neutral safety switch inside the steering column behind the steering wheel...
 
Was it a column shift or a floor shift car? Is their a difference between the two. Just want to do it right the first time. Thanks
 
Well all the work under dash is done and the shifter and safety switches are installed. For the neutral safety switch I just went with the big purple one under the hood that runs from the fuse connecter to the starter. Just cut it and spliced in two wires and connected it to the tabs. Pulled the 383 short block out from under the bench and got that on the stand. Everything is their to get that bolted up and ready to install. Converter is in the box and the built th350 is on the rollers, should go quick. More to come with the build if I do something tomorrow.
 
Well I finished the motor last night so that's ready to get bolted up to the trans and installed. Motor started lift as a 638casting with 4 bolt mains. This motor was used from 86-95 and came with a roller cam or with out. This one was set up for a roller and it came in a deal I couldn't pass up. Block was bored .040 line bored and squared decked cleaned and prepped. I have done about a dozen of these strokers and all show their worth with the cubic inch increase. Most times I just use the 880 vortec casting from 96-2001, these show so little wear in the cylinder that I just order the standard bore kits off ebay. These are complete balanced eagle kits and come with everything needed to stroke the block out to 377 inches with no cost for boring ($180-200) or more at your local shop. You can order the kits with a 9.5 compression with a 64cc head or the flat tops that come in a 10.3 with the same size head. I chose the 9.5 because I am running the GM vortec heads with a little porting and upgraded springs for the roller cam. Cam is a Comp. EX-270 hyd roller more for the low end torque then high rpm HP. Last one I did went 108 in a clapped out monty. Built th350 with a mild stall 18-2200 Houghs converter. Intake is a Edelbrock airgap with a Edelbrock 750 carb., 32 degrees of timing with these fast burn heads and its all set to run. If everything goes right it should be at the track next Sunday. I HOPE.
 
kind of a ho hum job to pull the motor and trans in one. Got a nice surprise when the trans came out and it had a big B&M decal on the top. Don't know much about it except it was clean and had low miles on it. So I still installed the good one that I had custom built for this application. This one will be send out to the guy that does my tranys just to see what I have and up grade what need to be done to it as a spare. Now just the SMALL STUFF you know all the things that take MOST of the time to get them to fit just right make it shift get the linkage to the new carb squared away fill trany with new fluid and get that working. Started at 8:30-4:00 tomorrow is another day.
 
Just a little update on the 81 olds. Had it together for a few weeks and got some wins and may be 50-60 runs on the set up. Goes right where I though it should with the cam and converter and gearing. 12.79 at 107mph. Seams like everyday we race or test we are running into the wind. Had it down to the Grove last Saturday and made 7 passes into the wind. It only varied .06 in those 7 passes. I think its ready for a full season next spring. Time to put the car and the truck away for the winter.
 
Hey I was a little curious what all you did to the neutral safety switch and why. Was thinking of trying to modify mine so I have 'roll over start' not really b/c need but b/c my gas gauge doesnt work and the turn signal stalk has the switch just w/in reach I can see it. Would like to know I can start the car rolling in neutral in case I'm low in gas on the neighborhood or something. Fuel line seems to be pulling it in from a bit high but I don't feel like taking the gas tank off yet*

B
 
We used a aftermarket shifter and READ the instructions that came with it. Not hard to do after READING the what they tell you to do. Kind of lost with what you are trying to do with the rest of your question. If the gas gauge does not work just pound on the tank and if it sound empty put gas in.
 
I was just going to try to to alter a stock 1 b/c its only a few dollars new lol. I just had all stock for now. Not going to start any of my fun stuff like you are doing until next spring b/c dont have a garage. Sorry to bore you w/ my technical questions I will just get a aftermarket one so it comes w instructions I guess. Would be good to have it so I could switch to a shifter next year anyway. Also, I was never afraid to drive w/o fuel gage I can't stand some of these new generation kids are so lame-o and ocd about everything lol. I was using the mileage to figure out my travel so I dont run out of gas but even when I used 12.5 as my guesstimate fuel mileage (over estimate) it still starts running kind of lean when it hits 1/8 tank thats why I wanted the rollover start since Im not going to re - do fuel tank til at least March/April but yeah I notice even when I'm 100% sure theres still about $10-12 of gas in the tank it starts getting kind of lame and stalls out here and there. When I'm under my car first thing that becomes obvious prev owner last repair was fuel line to the tank so I'm sure it is the cause and not the carb which runs beautifully when I had 3/4 - 1/2 tank of fuel in the car though.
 
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