82 El Camino PrOjEcT "UnDa KuRuPtIoN"

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Heeeyyy,,,that's an Oklahoma plate! I don't remember authorizing one to leave the state :lol:
 
Wish I could find something that clean up here for $600. Nice score!
 
im going to pull the motor tomorrow and replace the flex plate and starter and inspect the motor have some buddies coming from cali also i will take pics of or el caminos
 
Blake442 said:
Might be easier to just remove the transmission instead.

X2!!!!!!! I would unbolt the transmission and move it backwards a bit. That will give you access to the flexplate without going through all the hassle of removing an engine. Just be sure to get a matched set of flexplate and starter. You probably need a 153 tooth unit and it has a 168. Older cars took the 168, but newer models used the 153 and the smaller bellhousing that goes with it. Seeing as how your engine is probably a service replacement, it may have the earlier 168 tooth configuration. On my car's 350 (1977 model), I used the flexplate and starter off a 1984 Grand Prix with a 305. Order that application and you should be fine provided you have a 2 piece seal engine (you should). If the car had a older transmission set up for a 168 tooth flywheel, the 153 should not be a problem so long as it had the 153 starter as it would have plenty of clearance. Now, if the car has a TH-350 in it ( not a TH 200 METRIC or TH 200 4R), the issue may be that it has a 168 tooth flexplate with a 153 tooth starter ( which won't fit). In that case, get an early starter. The final possibility is that the starter is not properly shimmed and is not releasing because of it. If that is the case, get a stack of starter shims and go at it.
 
85 Cutlass Brougham said:
Blake442 said:
Might be easier to just remove the transmission instead.

X2!!!!!!! I would unbolt the transmission and move it backwards a bit. That will give you access to the flexplate without going through all the hassle of removing an engine. Just be sure to get a matched set of flexplate and starter. You probably need a 153 tooth unit and it has a 168. Older cars took the 168, but newer models used the 153 and the smaller bellhousing that goes with it. Seeing as how your engine is probably a service replacement, it may have the earlier 168 tooth configuration. On my car's 350 (1977 model), I used the flexplate and starter off a 1984 Grand Prix with a 305. Order that application and you should be fine provided you have a 2 piece seal engine (you should). If the car had a older transmission set up for a 168 tooth flywheel, the 153 should not be a problem so long as it had the 153 starter as it would have plenty of clearance. Now, if the car has a TH-350 in it ( not a TH 200 METRIC or TH 200 4R), the issue may be that it has a 168 tooth flexplate with a 153 tooth starter ( which won't fit). In that case, get an early starter. The final possibility is that the starter is not properly shimmed and is not releasing because of it. If that is the case, get a stack of starter shims and go at it.
o ok so that might have been the reason the flex plate was tearin the starter up.. the guy i bought it from said he replaced the starter and flex plate and it ran fine then the next day the he had the same problem with the starter and flexplate .. basically the flex plate hit the starter cone and broke t and teeth are missing on the flex plate...
 
Sounds to me like it was improperly shimmed. I didn't really get the problem when I first read it, but the 153 tooth starter shouldn't fit on a 168 tooth flexplate (Well... without a big hammer, an angle grinder and lots of determination), and the 168 tooth starter won't even touch a 153. So, what you will need is a set of shims, and then make damn sure the starter pinion is NOT staying in mesh with the flexplate after the car starts!!! My car did this when I first put it together too, but I knew about the shims. You have to remember that this is an older GM product, not a modern Japanese car. NOTHING fits without a stack of shims in it somewhere! :lol:

As for how to shim, here's a tip: Most shims have one end that has the hole open at the tip. That is the side that goes towards the oil pan. This way, you only need remove the outer bolt, and loosen the inner one a bit. You can then slide in the shim with the starter's weight still supported by the bolt. All you have to do next is start the other bolt, then torque both of the bolts. Just be sure that you have both bolts started before you torque one down. it is the easiest way to align things. Also, you may have to shim it several times to get it right. That is why the package of shims comes with more than one. These are NOT precision parts either, they are meant to work with a fudge factor so that the parts did not have to be made too precisely.
 
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