83 Buick Regal Estate Wagon 5.3 LS, bagged

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Nice work. I'll be following your build thread.
 
I really like your work, but I do believe that you have the frame side engine mounts set too far back - which is causing your interference issues.
 
  • Agree
Reactions: Texas82GP
Thanks for the comments! Mike, your car is a huge inspiration.. the work involved is phenomenal. I've followed you over at LS1tech for a while now. For the mounts, I'm just trusting the Holley engineering and it seems to be spot on, if not a *little* close to the firewall. Or are you commenting on the clamshell mounts being on the farther rearward holes than the front ones? Either way it's too late as the entire drivetrain has been installed and set up with it in the current position.. hope it's right! 😵
 
Here is some motivation - it has kind of kicked me in the *ss to get this project buttoned up. I spotted this a few days ago in a downtown Seattle parking lot on the way in to work. Most people would probably not even look twice at some "old 80s car" but I immediately see the big and little tires, the excellent paint and body, the vintage plates, etc. So cool, and I hope mine can be a daily driver even in our crappy weather.

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Thanks for the comments! Mike, your car is a huge inspiration.. the work involved is phenomenal. I've followed you over at LS1tech for a while now. For the mounts, I'm just trusting the Holley engineering and it seems to be spot on, if not a *little* close to the firewall. Or are you commenting on the clamshell mounts being on the farther rearward holes than the front ones? Either way it's too late as the entire drivetrain has been installed and set up with it in the current position.. hope it's right! 😵

Okay, now I am blushing... I just checked the install instructions (http://documents.holley.com/199r10708rev2.pdf) from Holley for the engine mounts and you positioned them as per. It just seems odd (to me) to move them back further than the stock SBC location.

Just keep an eye on the heater box when it torques over... don't want to punch a hole.
 
Just keep an eye on the heater box when it torques over... don't want to punch a hole.

Ha! No problem.. I was thinking like how did I mess this up now? Haha.. good point on the clearance when it's under load, I will try to check that out later. I know it appears very close in some pics, but it seems to have enough clearance to me. I am certain there has been a lot of discussion on this point over on LS1tech. I think people have differing experiences due to slight variances in the cars.
 
Thanks for the comments! Happy camper, what's your project? Are you doing an LS swap?

I feel a bit like I'm cheating because this write up isn't in real time, it's over the past year of working on the car as we could get to it. I didn't want to start a thread and then stall out and forget it.. and I really didn't want to build it up only to have some major issue come up. So the car as it sits now is almost 100% together, just a few issues to trace and fix.. it's a completely different animal now! So quick and feels great to drive
 
This is the last update to bring it up to actual real time! I haven't had much time lately with house remods going on, so it hasn't changed much. Getting all the wiring sorted out was a fun challenge for my dad, he likes to read through schematics and pull wire. I got a pretty decent Champion radiator and cheap-o electric fans from ebay. After trying an intake kit and then having to piece it together from a few extra parts I finally got the intake side completed (I still want to run an extra 6 or so inches to get it in to the area behind the headlight).

Ill try to post up the start up video if I can, I was amazed that it fired on the first turn of the key! It sounded awesome with no exhaust, too. After that we installed the very nice Holley 2.5" full system.. but it is too loud for this car with the sleeper effect. I thought I had found some nice resonator tips that almost exactly match the ones currently on the car, but I think now I was really looking at open exhaust tips. If anyone knows of 2.5" inlet resonator tips around 12" please let me know.. I'm still searching. I don't want to run the 2.5" inlet with 4" outlets because of said sleeper look. It sounds wicked now, but a too much like these new Mustang guys who have the way-too-loud factory systems that cackle all the time. I suppose my best option is to get the longer, quieter mufflers and replace the Holley ones (I wish they would give you a loudness option when buying!).

We still need to trace where it's leaking steam from around the heater core.. need to trace an electrical issue.. and I'm trying to figure out why the front air bag / shocks aren't collapsing all the way. They stop with about an inch to go.

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battery side: shows the power source for the main computer harness (large gauge red), the airbag system, the fuel pump and the fans going down to the fan relays

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shot from that side, most of the engine accessories are bolted on

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interior showing some of the plastic ducting. we did replace most if not all of it as that dealer cut holes or otherwise changed the originals

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one thing I hadn't closely looked at is the plane where the pedals rest... the gas pedal is a little closer to the driver which means you can't slide your foot straight over form brake to gas, you have to pull it back a little. Not a huge deal, but on of those things you might not consider until on the road

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rad. We did actually reuse the stock trans cooler lines which is kinda weird, but they did fit with some slight bending and cursing. I think we only had to buy some quick-connect to NPT thread adaptors

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intake mocked up.. it's not perfect as it rests on the inner fender and the upper rad hose rests on top of the filter. So it will be fixed someday

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I like this shot as it shows what an intercooler may look like hanging down behind the grill.. :twisted:

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this is from shots I was taking trying to trouble shoot the front air bag issue. You can see the oil pan clears nicely and get an idea how tucked up everything is like pans and exhaust pipes
 
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