84 Buick Regal wiring diagram

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It would be VERY helpful if we new what gauge cluster you are using, and EXACTLY what info your dash needs supplied from the engine bay.

If you had a factory tach and the car was a originally a 6 cylinder, then there is some hocus pocus that needs to take place to get the tach to work correctly. And I’m not that magician - hehe.

Please supply all of the items you need/have. It will speed this up for you.
 
A few more.

The Tan cut off one is likely the oil sending unit.

Blue is likely the choke heater.

As stated above Purple to starter solenoid, Two red/pink are the power into the car from the main power cable at the starter.

Can't see the colors of the other two wires. The one looks like it is the end of the tan wire as above. The other looks like a black with white stripe if so it is a ground wire for what I have no idea.

Does your car have a tachometer?


Wiring.jpg
 
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Tachometer wire is either black or white and should go to a RF filter mounted on the firewall before going into the wiring harness. Careful If you ground the tachometer terminal it will burn up the HEI module,
 
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I have added more to the post with the picture.

The red on the 2 wire connector for the alternator, there is the single red wire from the bolt terminal on the alternator (missing in the picture) one of the red wires from the starter and another 12GA red wire to the HVAC blower motor hi speed relay all splice together in the harness.
 
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I have added more to the post with the picture.

The red on the 2 wire connector for the alternator, there is the single red wire from the bolt terminal on the alternator (missing in the picture) one of the red wires from the starter and another 12GA red wire to the HVAC blower motor hi speed relay all splice together in the harness.
I appreciate all of your help I think I’ve decided I may be better off in the long run just ordering a painless harness and running all the new wiring as well as braided fuel lines
 
That will not be easier. That is not a ‘Painless’ install. Changing out the fuse block means you need to pull the dash.

What you have going on is super simple. And it’s not a big deal if you make a mistake - just fix it.

The 1st time a started on a G it had no engine or trans. I removed both harnesses from the bulk head connector and pinned them out. Then pulled them out of the loom to inspect them. I still have a the coil wire catASStrophy saved on my wall as reminder to trust no one else’s wiring.
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This gem was buried in there. In the end I used that entire harness for a engine swap with my son’s Motown LS. Everything I. The car worked as it should. I looked at replacement harnesses at the time as well - truly not worth it.
 
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That will not be easier. That is not a ‘Painless’ install. Changing out the fuse block means you need to pull the dash.

What you have going on is super simple. And it’s not a big deal if you make a mistake - just fix it.

The 1st time a started on a G it had no engine or trans. I removed both harnesses from the bulk head connector and pinned them out. Then pulled them out of the loom to inspect them. I still have a the coil wire catASStrophy saved on my wall as reminder to trust no one else’s wiring.View attachment 195787

This gem was buried in there. In the end I used that entire harness for a engine swap with my son’s Motown LS. Everything I. The car worked as it should. I looked at replacement harnesses at the time as well - truly not worth it.
Okay let me just make sure I understand this properly before I go try to start it tonight. If I run the purple and two reds to starter solenoid , pink to dizzy , power from battery to starter and ground from battery to block I should be able to fire it up?
 
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