my doors are very flimsy, window is loose doesnt roll up all the way, when i close the doors they are very loud sounding, l;ike clanging going around? should i get new doors from another car or is it anyway to tighten these doors up so they are sounding better when closed and etc?
84 cutlass doors?
- Thread starter lovemyolds84
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your hinges likely need new pins and bushings. it is a cheap and farely easy job to do, it will likely fix all of the sag in your doors. doors are no easy thing to come by for a cutlass/regal that are rust free!
like im very very new to this but its somethin i really want to do. i jus want all the little comforts you know? so if i get new pins and bushings my doors could be tighter sounding?
im also putting my money on the hinges....Cutlass Doors are heavy!!! im surprised mine arent shot yet !
Sounds like you are talking about the clunks and rattles coming from inside the door. I would take the door panel off and feel around to see if anything is loose or worn. If your window is not going all the way up, maybe something in the mechanism is loose.
Generally these older car doors don't shut with the solid rattle free thud that you get in newer vehicles. Some of it is because they just weren't built as well and partially they have less sound deadening material.
The g-bodys came with some foam sound deadener between the door panel and the door. Check to make sure that yours is still there, some previous owner may have removed it.
You could try adding some aftermarket sound deadner. There are many to choose from. They all seem expensive to me for what you get. I have read that Cascade Audio has good product. I have bought a few things from them and they were good to deal with. They do make a couple different products to help with door noise. Some spray inside the door, some come in rolls and glue between the door and door panel.
Generally these older car doors don't shut with the solid rattle free thud that you get in newer vehicles. Some of it is because they just weren't built as well and partially they have less sound deadening material.
The g-bodys came with some foam sound deadener between the door panel and the door. Check to make sure that yours is still there, some previous owner may have removed it.
You could try adding some aftermarket sound deadner. There are many to choose from. They all seem expensive to me for what you get. I have read that Cascade Audio has good product. I have bought a few things from them and they were good to deal with. They do make a couple different products to help with door noise. Some spray inside the door, some come in rolls and glue between the door and door panel.
jerrycad472 said:
Sounds good, do you think i need the deadening AND pins and bushings to give me some kind of fix to my problems? you are exactly right about the sounds from the doors. What about dynamat?
If your door is not sagging and difficult to open and close, I would not do the pins and bushings right now. (Don't get me wrong, those do commonly go bad with these heavy doors, but I don't think that sounds like your problem.) Dynamat will probably help too. It is very similar to the stuff Cascade sells. You just need to investigate which one of thier products are recommend for doors. Websites should help.
jerrycad472 said:
ok good. as for the windows not rolling all the way and wind blowing in does it have anything to do with weather stripping? i was just going to replace it just to be safe either way. and with the doors the actual door is loose from the inside panel? like where the arms rest are. not sure of the official name for this other than calling it a door panel . and yes the doors do not sag at all. just really loose and clangy
the window height and sideward movement it controlled by 4 things inside your door. Take of the panel and you will find:
At the top, near the back and closer to the front, two brackets with a bolt in the top. The brackets shoudl have a felt piece on the end, which just touch the window when the window is rolled up. You can move these in and out to tighten the sideways movement of the door.
About 5 inches in from the back of the door, and again closer to the front, about 4 inches? down, there should be a bolth with a funny looking small tab coming out the top. this holds a big plastic thing that looks like a V. This controls how high the window is. The one at the front is a little different, but works the same.
You will have to play with these to ensure when the window is rolled up the entire way, it closes INSIDE the blowout clip, and sits properely.
At the top, near the back and closer to the front, two brackets with a bolt in the top. The brackets shoudl have a felt piece on the end, which just touch the window when the window is rolled up. You can move these in and out to tighten the sideways movement of the door.
About 5 inches in from the back of the door, and again closer to the front, about 4 inches? down, there should be a bolth with a funny looking small tab coming out the top. this holds a big plastic thing that looks like a V. This controls how high the window is. The one at the front is a little different, but works the same.
You will have to play with these to ensure when the window is rolled up the entire way, it closes INSIDE the blowout clip, and sits properely.
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