84 cutlass sbc 350 to olds 455 swap

[joe_padavano]

May I ask why everyone went off on a 200-4R tangent when his combination is SBC 350/TH350 and going to Olds 455/TH400?

Shouldn't there have been a mention of crossmember differences and choices, the electric kickdown switch that's going to be needed for the transmission, output shaft spline count, other possible issues going from Chevy to Olds? I know we're estatic about an Olds using big Olds power but let's not forget these important things. 🙂

You mean like this post from above?

She is going to be fun now! Sorry I don't know the answers but can point you in some good directions in addition to what you should get here. www.oldspower.com and www.robertpowersmotorsports.com. Kooks makes a quality header for this. I remember reading something about useing the clamshell part of the 307 mount as its lower.

307s don't use "clamshell" mounts. There are metal brackets that bolt to the frame and rubber mounts that bolt to the engine. The metal frame brackets are the same on the 78-88 A/G body cars and the 77-90 B-body cars, so any of those are appropriate donors. The rubber mounts are readily available from any auto parts store. I just bought a pair for my Custom Cruiser from Advance Auto Parts for $8 each.

The TH400 should be a bolt-in since it uses the same crossmember location as the 200-4R that was stock in your Cutlass. The driveshaft will need to be shortened and you'll need the correct front yoke.

Since you don't have any 307 accessory brackets, you'll need to get appropriate Olds brackets. The 307 brackets are more common but require small modifications to fit the tall-deck 455. If you plan to use the original R4-style A/C compressor, you'll need to use the modified 307 brackets. If you don't plan to use A/C, just get the 68-76 Olds brackets, which fit both big and small blocks. Olds used three different water pump lengths, depending on whether you had A/C or not. Get the pump, brackets, and pulleys as a matched set.

Kooks headers are great but pricey. The 69-72 W/Z manifolds will also work.

Good luck.

 

[treed_cutlass]

http://www.maliburacing.com/auto_tranny_id.htm

This should give you all the dimensions you might need.

 

[BBC_cutty]

mine went in like butter, i know the olds motors are a little wider, this is a 454 in my cutlass

 

[BBC_cutty]

The short shaft TH400 and the 200-4R are the same length, and you will only need to change the slip yoke. If it's a long tail shaft, then you will need to have the driveshaft shortened.

Actually the 200-4R is between the TH350 and TH400 in overall length, but it's closer to the TH350. You MIGHT get away with the stock driveshaft, but you run the risk of bottoming the yoke on hard bumps.

hey Joe! i swapped back and forth using a Th2004r and Th350 with the same driveshaft and i had 0 problems..

i have a 455 in my 1983 Cutlass and its almost a direct bolt in to the the 307..but since hes going from Chevy to Olds he needs the frame pads from an Olds engine.. and all the accessories and brackets that follow

there is a long and short tail shaft th350, im running a th400 with the stock drive shaft, i remember something about changing the ballhousing to comnvert to a olds motor

 

[midwestls]

Nothing to say here except I like BBC_cutty. Freakin awesome whip, long live huge burnouts and the fastest times ever.

 

[BBC_cutty]

lol, thanks for the props

 

[joe_padavano]

there is a long and short tail shaft th350, im running a th400 with the stock drive shaft, i remember something about changing the ballhousing to comnvert to a olds motor

Actually there are THREE different tail housing lengths for the TH350 and for the TH400. Also, since the bellhousing on either TH350 or TH400 is integral to the trans case, you need either a whole new trans or an adapter plate.

 

[jae]

May I ask why everyone went off on a 200-4R tangent when his combination is SBC 350/TH350 and going to Olds 455/TH400?

Shouldn't there have been a mention of crossmember differences and choices, the electric kickdown switch that's going to be needed for the transmission, output shaft spline count, other possible issues going from Chevy to Olds? I know we're estatic about an Olds using big Olds power but let's not forget these important things. 🙂

You mean like this post from above?

She is going to be fun now! Sorry I don't know the answers but can point you in some good directions in addition to what you should get here. www.oldspower.com and www.robertpowersmotorsports.com. Kooks makes a quality header for this. I remember reading something about useing the clamshell part of the 307 mount as its lower.

307s don't use "clamshell" mounts. There are metal brackets that bolt to the frame and rubber mounts that bolt to the engine. The metal frame brackets are the same on the 78-88 A/G body cars and the 77-90 B-body cars, so any of those are appropriate donors. The rubber mounts are readily available from any auto parts store. I just bought a pair for my Custom Cruiser from Advance Auto Parts for $8 each.

The TH400 should be a bolt-in since it uses the same crossmember location as the 200-4R that was stock in your Cutlass. The driveshaft will need to be shortened and you'll need the correct front yoke.

Since you don't have any 307 accessory brackets, you'll need to get appropriate Olds brackets. The 307 brackets are more common but require small modifications to fit the tall-deck 455. If you plan to use the original R4-style A/C compressor, you'll need to use the modified 307 brackets. If you don't plan to use A/C, just get the 68-76 Olds brackets, which fit both big and small blocks. Olds used three different water pump lengths, depending on whether you had A/C or not. Get the pump, brackets, and pulleys as a matched set.

Kooks headers are great but pricey. The 69-72 W/Z manifolds will also work.

Good luck.

Yeah, just like that S/A. More of a post not to get too far off on a tangent, as most posts do. But if you felt as though you needed to re-clarify for some reason, I'm happy for you.