87 Buick V8 307 Stalling after driving 20-30 Minutes

Possible pin hole in a fuel line or rear rubber lines that have broke down & "venting off" fuel enough to choke the supply feed?
 
Since most of the fuel line is under suction, a leak on that side would suck in air that could block fuel flow., Instead of throwing parts at the car the OP needs to perform some diagnosis work.
 
Since most of the fuel line is under suction, a leak on that side would suck in air that could block fuel flow., Instead of throwing parts at the car the OP needs to perform some diagnosis work.
Just figured to bring it up as I've delt with something simular back when there were more carbs than FI induction on the road. But due to age those hoses might need to be something put on the to do list sometime after.
 
Since most of the fuel line is under suction, a leak on that side would suck in air that could block fuel flow., Instead of throwing parts at the car the OP needs to perform some diagnosis work.
I agree. I brought this up in post 12 and 32. Post 12 is almost a month ago.
 
Indeed going to check vac lines and fuel pressure.

That is a good start but remember more than just vacuum hoses can leak vacuum. Otherplacex gor vacuum leaks include the brake booster, vacuum motors, intake manifold gaskets, carb gaskets, worn throttle shaft, bad or incorrect PCV valve, bad valve cover gaskets, HVAC, etc. It sounds like either when the choke opens or the computer goes into closed loop is when your stalling issues begin. This is where having a OBD1 scanner becomes very useful.
 
That is a good start but remember more than just vacuum hoses can leak vacuum. Otherplacex gor vacuum leaks include the brake booster, vacuum motors, intake manifold gaskets, carb gaskets, worn throttle shaft, bad or incorrect PCV valve, bad valve cover gaskets, HVAC, etc. It sounds like either when the choke opens or the computer goes into closed loop is when your stalling issues begin. This is where having a OBD1 scanner becomes very useful.
I have an OBD1 scanner but not getting any codes last time I tested maybe two weeks ago. I will pop it on tonight and see if I get any codes. When I staring all this I got code 21 which is throttle position sensor-signal voltage is high. Thats way I went ahead and got a new one.
 
I have an OBD1 scanner but not getting any codes last time I tested maybe two weeks ago. I will pop it on tonight and see if I get any codes. When I staring all this I got code 21 which is throttle position sensor-signal voltage is high. Thats way I went ahead and got a new one.

Do you just have a code reader or a scanner that displays both codes and live data? An analog dwell meter displays fuel mixture solenoid dwell time which tells you if the ECM is responding rich or lean as well as RPM and voltage. An OBD1 scanner like a old Alltest Brainmaster displays the previous 3 features as well as live sensor data which makes TPS adjustment easier. On top of that a Mityvac is very handy for testing vacuum parts. It takes a lot of specialized tools to work on smog controlled cars which includes modern ones. Without at least a analog dwell meter you are working blind on CCC cars.

I have all 3 tools above. Analog dwell meters and OBD1 scanners are pretty much only available used these days. The advantage of a analog dwell meter is you can watch the needle sweep to get a better view of the solenoid dwell.
 

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