I replaced the fuel injectors and yes the regulator was part of it. The truck runs now but runs like crap. I will drive it to autozone so they can check the codes for me. I might be able to afford that coolant sensor also. I have to put the cap and rotor on too. I just have a feeling that neither will do the trick and this is going to get a lot more expensive. Can't do nothing more for 2 weeks anyway. Any more ideas?
96 Silverado running rich
- Thread starter Respected_Cutlass
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quite often you have to clear the computer after work like that. otherwise it retains the adaptive values. plus you may have to replace the plugs.
if you pull the battery neg terminal for 30sec or more, that should work. but it doesn't always clear the adaptations. but if you have the codes cleared at autozone, that'll also get the adaptive mode.
just in case, take some brake cleaner and spray off the plugs. it doesn't take long to foul them with a rich condition.
just in case, take some brake cleaner and spray off the plugs. it doesn't take long to foul them with a rich condition.
Okay, I put the cap and rotor on and bought a fuel pressure guage and also a engine coolant temperature sensor. I checked the fuel pressure by attaching it to the valve on the inlet or outlet pipe. Turned the key on and nothing, tried starting it and nothing. It no longer will start unless there is starting fluid being sprayed onto it. There was fuel pressure before I changed the injectors because I had to bleed it and gas came out, the same goes for after I installed the injectors. Does this mean the fuel pump was the problem the whole time, and it was just going bad? I probably should have checked the pressure from the get go. Well one more big project for me and man... Do you guys know if I will need the fuel pump along with the sender assembly and strained or do I just need the fuel pump? There is a $140 difference. Do I really need to replace the wiring harness for the fuel pump? Autozone's website recommends it. Also how about the relay? Thanks in advance
If you can get access to a tech 2 scan tool you can look at the actual values of what everthing is suppose to be. That way you will know if your harness is getting the correct voltage, if fuel pressure is right when running and all the other stuff. You can do this without it but its easier. I would go ahead and replace the o2 sensors too. If you dont have the money for it then just take em off and clean them with a wire brush. I would check the voltage to the 02 sensor too.
If your car is running rich you should have some type of code in the ecm. o2, ect or something. Get a haynes book and start from the source instead of jumping around cuz you will get lost real quick trying to fix something. I would have done the same with replacing the pump and stuff though. Hope you get it fixed.
This is one of the reason I want to stick with carb but you cant beat fuel injection reliability. Carb will run pig rich and on its last leg.
If your car is running rich you should have some type of code in the ecm. o2, ect or something. Get a haynes book and start from the source instead of jumping around cuz you will get lost real quick trying to fix something. I would have done the same with replacing the pump and stuff though. Hope you get it fixed.
This is one of the reason I want to stick with carb but you cant beat fuel injection reliability. Carb will run pig rich and on its last leg.
Success Finally!
3 Torx Screws to disconnect gas filler
1 10mm ground bolt underneath gas filler
Unplugged tail light connections and separated them from the bed by removing them from their clips
1 1/4 Ground bolt connected from tail light harness to body(bed) removed (driver side)
Spare tire removed (not sure if I needed to)
Tail gate removed
8 18mm bolts to remove bed (No impact, all muscle)
For 1 I used the handle of a jack as a breaker bar
I noticed the tail pipe was already bent in for access to the 18mm bolt it was blocking. That could have been moved easily with the right size socket. No complaints though.
Set bed aside and removed and replaced the pump and strainer! Truck runs good now! Thanks all
3 Torx Screws to disconnect gas filler
1 10mm ground bolt underneath gas filler
Unplugged tail light connections and separated them from the bed by removing them from their clips
1 1/4 Ground bolt connected from tail light harness to body(bed) removed (driver side)
Spare tire removed (not sure if I needed to)
Tail gate removed
8 18mm bolts to remove bed (No impact, all muscle)
For 1 I used the handle of a jack as a breaker bar
I noticed the tail pipe was already bent in for access to the 18mm bolt it was blocking. That could have been moved easily with the right size socket. No complaints though.
Set bed aside and removed and replaced the pump and strainer! Truck runs good now! Thanks all
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