A/C box install

They originally were in three or four cavity connector (depends on year/engine) that would of mated to the engine harness side.
Yes, and I would personally not use it anymore and run full length new wires (not spliced) as that red wire for the high blower relay tended to get hot and melt the connector.

There's several other threads in this form on fuse links and I personally don't run any fusible links down to starter solenoids anymore. Either to junction block near battery or directly to battery i.e.; dual terminals style.

But that's just me. Unless you're restoring to OEM then that's different of course.
 
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Yes, and I would personally not use it anymore and run full length new wires (not spliced) as that red wire for the high blower relay tended to get hot and melt the connector.

There's several other threads in this form on fuse links and I personally don't run any fusible links down to starter solenoids anymore. Either to junction block near battery or directly to battery i.e.; dual terminals style.

But that's just me. Unless you're restoring to OEM then that's different of course.
I forgot to add for the OP like I do in other A/C related threads, put a 30 amp fuse on that red power wire since GM bean counters didn't think it was needed. I too second moving the fusible links off the starter.
 
Ok here's my next big problem. I just took out heater box only to realize all the factory ducting either won't work or is cracked and broken beyond repair. Does anyone know where besides a junkyard or ebay these parts can be purchased?
 
Ok here's my next big problem. I just took out heater box only to realize all the factory ducting either won't work or is cracked and broken beyond repair. Does anyone know where besides a junkyard or ebay these parts can be purchased?
Likely eBay or salvage yard (or put a WTB in the forums here, hopefully someone might have what you need) but if the damage is extensive you may want to re-think what I believe some else may have already mentioned and consider just going with an aftermarket system (ie; Vintage Air) simply because you'll be getting an entire kit, with support for install, and you may find that by the time you muster all the OEM parts together since you didn't have existing factory A/C it might cost less in the end.

It's just a suggestion to consider, if you can find a complete inside half of the HVAC module used and in working condition then by all means having a full OEM style system would be nicer imho. Usually guys will find a complete donor car (ie no driveline) to transplant all the HVAC parts over from so you have everything, piecing together can sometimes be frustrating, and expensive depending on where it's sourced.
 
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Ok here's my next big problem.I just took out heater box only to realize all the factory ducting either won't work or is cracked and broken beyond repair. Does anyone know where besides a junkyard or ebay these parts can be purchased?
taking ebay outta the equation is a tough one as they haven't made these cars in 45+ years,they're kinda dried up at the junk yards and the days of a swap meet providing a decent amount of parts for our rides are gone as well. we don't have a lot of sources and it's harder be picky.btw the heat only glove box is different than the a/c version so add that to your list if you're looking to have a functioning glove box assembly in your car..
 
.btw the heat only glove box is different than the a/c version so add that to your list if you're looking to have a functioning glove box assembly in your car..
Going from heat to A/C isn't that bad when it comes to the glove box. It's when going the other way it needs changed as the heater uses a smaller box due to the space it takes up under the dash.
 
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Got the ducting I needed and ac box installed. I now have a purple and a gray vacuum line that needs to be connected to somewhere. Anyone have a solution for connecting these to a vacuum supply?
 
I forgot to add for the OP like I do in other A/C related threads, put a 30 amp fuse on that red power wire since GM bean counters didn't think it was needed. I too second moving the fusible links off the starter.
So new 10 gauge red wires with inline 30 amp fuse. Connect that to a junction block by the battery and run that down to the starter?
 

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