A/C box install
- Thread starter Bailey
- Start date
First pic is the A/C connector sitting on top of a non A/C box, perhaps the car once had A/C? If it did that will make it easier.
Second pic, the green wire might be for the temp sending unit. Need a pic that shows all of these wires to nail it down 100%.
Third pic, Those are the fuseable links for the circuit 2. Goes on the large stud on the starter solenoid with the battery cable.
fourth pic, Alternator wiring, the ring terminal goes on the stud on the back of the alternator, the two wire plug goes into the side of the alternator.
Ignoring the fifth pic for now.
Second pic, the green wire might be for the temp sending unit. Need a pic that shows all of these wires to nail it down 100%.
Third pic, Those are the fuseable links for the circuit 2. Goes on the large stud on the starter solenoid with the battery cable.
fourth pic, Alternator wiring, the ring terminal goes on the stud on the back of the alternator, the two wire plug goes into the side of the alternator.
Ignoring the fifth pic for now.
From what I discovered recently all engine harnesses have the A/C connector regardless if the car was heat only or A/C.
Looking at pic: 20240906_172432.jpg, looks like that's using a Thermostatic Cycling Switch (the little silver box with the light green dark green wires) and it uses a capillary tube sensor that is hose clamped on to the evaporator inlet tube. Under the wadding of weather strip sealer (aka dum dum) as we used to call it.
Later years moved away from those (finicky) switches, and used the Pressure Cycling Switch instead mounted on the second LO SIDE port of the Accumulator. Note the R12 and R134a Pressure Cycling Switches are set to different pressures for each respectively, however some (ie; the OE) had adjustment screw you could tweak when doing the R12 to R134a conversions.
Later years moved away from those (finicky) switches, and used the Pressure Cycling Switch instead mounted on the second LO SIDE port of the Accumulator. Note the R12 and R134a Pressure Cycling Switches are set to different pressures for each respectively, however some (ie; the OE) had adjustment screw you could tweak when doing the R12 to R134a conversions.
So I can ditch the thermo switch? Do those wires then run to the pressure cycling switch?
I would, the pressure cycling switch is the better option.
Yes, both the thermostatic and pressure "cycling" switches just interrupt (disengage) the compressor clutch and both use the same wiring in most every application. Most I've seen the pressure cycling [switch] controls the power (12v) side of the compressor clutch, and a few where it controls the negative (ground) side of the compressor clutch.
Either way works, and you should use the one your harness is already set up for which looks like the dark green and light green wires.
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