A little electrical connection issue

[Mhael]

Hi, hope everyone is well. I am working on getting my 84 monte ss back on the road and I have run into a little snag. The short version is that I have no power running to the ignition switch on top the steering column, I have horn and lights (mostly, a couple of side markers are not working and turn signals are not working with one of the indicators stuck on). I pulled the main plug on the firewall in the engine bay and I have 2 hot blade terminals, I am assuming one powers lights/horn and the other is supposed to provide power to the ignition switch. Cleaned everything and reassembled, no dice. If I gently pull up on the wiring harness of the main plug in the engine bay I get enough of a connection to turn on the test light when probing the red wires going into the ignition switch with the key in the OFF position, as soon as I turn the key to the ON position I lose the connection. This is repeatable, I am guessing the blade terminal that powers the ignition switch is not making good contact (I am not sure which is which). I have a few thoughts on how to fix this, but I wanted to get some second opinions.

1. Bend the hot blade terminals on the plug side to try and get a better connection
2. Shim the sockets for the hot blade terminals on the receptacle side
3. Tin the hot blade terminals on the plug side so that they are large enough to hopefully make a good connection

Maybe none of these are a good idea and there is a proper way to fix this that I am unaware of...any input would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[pagrunt]

Hi, hope everyone is well. I am working on getting my 84 monte ss back on the road and I have run into a little snag. The short version is that I have no power running to the ignition switch on top the steering column, I have horn and lights (mostly, a couple of side markers are not working and turn signals are not working with one of the indicators stuck on). I pulled the main plug on the firewall in the engine bay and I have 2 hot blade terminals, I am assuming one powers lights/horn and the other is supposed to provide power to the ignition switch. Cleaned everything and reassembled, no dice. If I gently pull up on the wiring harness of the main plug in the engine bay I get enough of a connection to turn on the test light when probing the red wires going into the ignition switch with the key in the OFF position, as soon as I turn the key to the ON position I lose the connection. This is repeatable, I am guessing the blade terminal that powers the ignition switch is not making good contact (I am not sure which is which). I have a few thoughts on how to fix this, but I wanted to get some second opinions.

1. Bend the hot blade terminals on the plug side to try and get a better connection
2. Shim the sockets for the hot blade terminals on the receptacle side
3. Tin the hot blade terminals on the plug side so that they are large enough to hopefully make a good connection

Maybe none of these are a good idea and there is a proper way to fix this that I am unaware of...any input would be appreciated.

Thanks

You are correct with the red wires (circuit 2) for what they power but I'll lead with don't bend or shim the terminal ends cause that may lead to connection failure/break in circuit, terminal ends breaking off, or worst a fire hazard. Now for the issue with power to the ignition switch, if you're getting power from the C100 (main dash conector junction) on the dash side to the switch with the key in the LOCK position but nothing in the RUN or START positions chances are it's a bad switch or it's getting grounded out. One trouble shooting tip (if you have A/C) with that wire would be also with the engine harness side of the C100 being connected to the dash side check to make sure you have power & speeds with the blower switch as the blower relay wire uses the same fusible link (fusible link A). So if it functions properly it'll will show at least the link is good. Moving from the red wire, look at the purple wire (circuit 6) to see if it's can send power to the starter solenoid (disconect from started first). Check it with the C100 connection together & apart. If the test light can show the whole circuit is good with the OFF & in the START positions then you might need to check the starter. Another one then to check is the orange wire (circiut 300, will also have the brown/white circuit 130 resitor wire), this will be checked in the RUN position & will need to see if the C/H fuse (20 amp), A/C fuse (25 amp), WDO circuit breaker (30 amp) are good. This is a very thorough check but if ignition switch does show it's good you'll have to look into what would be grounding it out.

 

[64nailhead]

The key switch n the column needs to have power from the fuse panel. It will be labelled IGN in the fuse panel I believe. If you have power at the pink wire at the ignition switch connector, then you should be able to jump power from that wire with a jumper wire to the purple wire and the car will crank over. If it does, then you have either a bad ignition switch (on the lower part of the column) or the rod has fallen out of the column for the ignition switch.

Basically, you can hot wire the car from the ignition switch connector. It's a pita to get unhooked from the ignition switch on the column, but once it is, then it's easy to figure out what's what with a jumper wire.

Do you know of the switch and connector I'm referencing?

 

[Mhael]

Thanks for the replies, I figured bending or shimming probably wasn't a good idea. I'll check everything that was suggested tomorrow and report back.

 

[Mhael]

Well I took the inner fender out today so I could disconnect the plug on the firewall and take a good look at it...this terminal looked like it was compressed compared to the others, so I touched it with a pick and it lifted a part. I am guessing that is why lifting up gently on the harness allowed me to get the test light to turn on at the ignition switch inside the car. Seems like a problem...lol

 

[Mhael]

I am not really familiar with the assembly, is it possible to replace that broken terminal by unbolting the fuse relay under the dash? If not, I am just going to solder it back together and see how long it lasts.

 

[Mhael]

I was able to remove the broken terminal, I am seeing some that look like it on clipsandfastners.com but I am not 100% sure which is the right one. It has an "11" printed on it as you can see in the attached images. If anyone could point me in the right direction, I would greatly appreciate it. I hope everyone has a Merry Christmas!

 

[ELCAM]

Search for Packard 56 connector Suffix is f for female and m for male. Lots of places have them. Make sure it is for 12GA for that power feed wire.

12 GA Female, GM part number - 2989877
16-14 GA Female, GM Part number - 2965142
16-14 GA Male, GM Part Number - 2971962

 

[pagrunt]

Search for Packard 56 connector Suffix is f for female and m for male. Lots of places have them. Make sure it is for 12GA for that power feed wire.

12 GA Female, GM part number - 2989877
16-14 GA Female, GM Part number - 2965142
16-14 GA Male, GM Part Number - 2971962

That's not a 56 terminal, it's a Pack-Con terminal.

 

[PVDave]

Appears to be a metripack 480.

To confirm, measure the width of the terminal opening. The 480 terminal uses a terminal that is 4.8 mm ( .189 inch) wide. If the blade width matches, you can order with confidence.

GM Metripack 480 Series Terminal 16-14 Gauge Female

GM Metripack 480 Series Terminal 16-14 Gauge Female

www.clipsandfasteners.com