AC delete?

[bluebronco69]

ac doesnt work very well anymore, and that would be spensive to get recharged, so how easy is it to delete the pump fittings, etc, i know there woudl be HP gains, so that is good
let me know
thanks

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

Or, you could just fix it yourself. R134a costs $6 a can, and you need 2 cans. You also need the right oil at about $5-10 a can, and will want to pull the compressor off and drain the oil. Extra bonus points for taking a shop vac to the evaporator and condenser too. Plus, you will need to swap out the O rings, dryer, pressure switch, and put the retrofit fittings on it. If you want to get fancy, get a new set of hoses. The hose to fill it is under $10. All together, it would only cost you $100-150. That's what I am doing. It is not as big a savings of weight as you think, maybe 25-30 lbs. That is really only worth .025-.03 in the 1/4 mile. The compressor does not draw any power when it is off either.

 

[coolchrisp]

now to actually awnser your question, its really easy to pull everything off, just undo all the lines and unbolt the compressor, and ur done!

 

[bluebronco69]

i dont mind, 85 cutlass's response im just not looking to spend 100-150 dollars right now, maybe later on down the raid, thats why i was thinking remove it for now and then do the conversion kit later on

thanks

 

[dan2286]

If you plan on putting it back on eventually, you should just leave it alone. Once the system is cracked open the accumulator is ruined, unless it has a bad leak already then it is already bad.

Unless you want to end up spending more money in the long run, just leave it on. You most likely wont see any noticeable hp gains, or even gas mileage.

 

[andrewmp6]

Leave the system on if your going to fix it later taking it off you won't feel any more power maybe 5hp gain and about 100 pounds lighter.

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

Leave the system on if your going to fix it later taking it off you won't feel any more power maybe 5hp gain and about 100 pounds lighter.

I don't see how you can figure on 100 lbs. The accumulator maybe weighs 2-5 lbs, the condenser another 5 and the evaporator 5-10. The compressor weighs 20 lbs ( I just checked it on my bathroom scale). Even if you removed all of the ducting and the suitcase, you still probably would not top 60 lbs. And besides, unless you only plan to race it, running without a defroster is a recipe for disaster. So, you would probably want to keep the ducting, and maybe swap to a non-A/C suitcase as it is much smaller.

 

[BACKSLAP]

QUESTION, I removed all ac housing and made my own panel from aluminum and painted it, my question is without the airbox in place, when you close the hood how would u prevent water from getting in the area especially since msd, relays, pumps, etc. are bolted to the panel, i thought of cutting just the top edge and mounting in on somehow of the old heater box so i can retain the hood seal lip and put the seal back, sound nuts? or does someone know something i dont, open for advice and help. 1st g body project. lol

thanks.
i own a repair shop i can fabricate if need be.

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

You could also just make a piece of aluminum that would support it. The piece you refer to has a vent in it to draw outside air from the base of the windshield, so it would not keep water out.

 

[dan2286]

QUESTION, I removed all ac housing and made my own panel from aluminum and painted it, my question is without the airbox in place, when you close the hood how would u prevent water from getting in the area especially since msd, relays, pumps, etc. are bolted to the panel, i thought of cutting just the top edge and mounting in on somehow of the old heater box so i can retain the hood seal lip and put the seal back, sound nuts? or does someone know something i dont, open for advice and help. 1st g body project. lol

thanks.
i own a repair shop i can fabricate if need be.

Take a look at this, http://www.gbodyparts.com/product_i...d=673&osCsid=813b190ad66270af3a774b612bb412b6

I have it on my car, it fits great.