Adding Pearl to Base Coat?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Sep 1, 2006
6,687
34
0
Tampa Bay Area
I have been thinking about this for some years now. I noticed that you can buy small bottles of pearl in different colors from House of Color (HOC) that can be added to paint. I am intrigued a bit, just having read the new Hot Rod magazine story on paint. Can I add it to my base coat, which is Navy Blue Metallic poly? It's a very dark blue, and I wanted to add a bit of purple pearl to really make it pop in the sun light. If so, how much should I add per quart of mixed product? Or would I be better served doing a light mist coat of clear with the pearl mixed in as sort of a mid coat, followed by the 3 or 4 normal layers of clear ( to give enough material to sand and buff). I am using R&M Diamont products to do the car if it matters.
 
Pearls typically go in a clear coat in which you paint over a light or dark base coat. The darker the base coat, the more effect you get out of the pearl. Like you said most shops will do the base, clear with pearl (or kandy), then top with straight clear if you want to wet sand for a show finish.

But if I can be honest with you, to me pearls and kandys are really for "show off cars". I think when g-bodys get painted like that they look very "lowriderish" if you know what I mean. If that's where you're going with your project then cool. But to me it seems like you're going for a more performance orient build and I think flashy paint like that is more for other venues as I stated above. But ... to each their own. I've yet to see a performance oriented g-body painted with a pearl or kandy that I like.

Seen plenty of lowrider g-bodys and donks that look good, but then that fits what they are trying to do as well. IMO very few muscle car, especially ones with squareish lines, look good wearing pearls and kandys unless they are designed for the show circuit.

Also, unless it's a part that can be totally removed and repainted (like a hood or fender) they're hard to repaint if you damage the paint on the quarter panel or main body of the car. When you over-lap an already painted area the pearl/kandy builds up and becomes darker. It can be done, but it's hard. I had a HOK candy apple red Mustang that I damaged the 1/4 panel and the entire body had to be repainted. It was a disaster.

I think g-body's look best with a fine to medium metallic base coat with clear over it. Flashy, but not overkill if you follow me. When painting a car you don't want to "overpaint" the body lines.

Luxary cars to me wear pearls the best (like white, gunmetal, etc) b/c the paint looks rich and accentuates the lines of the car. Kandys look good on almost anything if you pick the right combination of colors ... but it's a fine line between nice and tacky. And where a pearl or kandy paint that looks awesome on a lowrider g-body is fine, on a car that's built to be more as a "street bruiser" then it kind of over-rides the point of the car.

But like I said I'm don't exactly know where you are going with your project. I'm building mine into a auto-x/corner carver/street machine, and I personally love the dark metallic grey on it now. But I think when it's ultimatly said and done I'll lay on some kind of BMW, Audi, or Mercedes gunmetal pearl (maybe with matt black stripes, I haven't decided on that yet).

The best thing to do is figure out what you want the car to represent and then paint it for that. If you want a performance oriented car, then like I said go with a metallic or solid base coat. If you're wanting something more flashy then yeah go for the pearl or kandy, but make sure you sitting nice and low (like a pro-touring stance) and got some sick rims under the fenders (i don't mean like donk size, but just nice and flush with the body and lots of chrome on them).

The best looking cars are the ones built with a purpose to include all the mods and what the car will be used for.

I know this was kinda' long, but I hope it helps. I LOVE automotive painting and making sure cars are set just right. I worked in a body shop for 2 years, dispite my mis-hap at getting screwed by E.S. haha. Oh well I was new to the area and didn't know much about them. :roll:
 
My car is sort of a mix of styles. It is built with performance in mind, but also comfort, style, and a big *ss stereo in a well finished trunk. I am even welding in some L brackets around the bottom of the trunk lip so that I have attaching points for the birch plywood backers I am building for the upholstery panels. The amps will all be hidden, and everything is being done to have a very finished feel to it, while still being able to be serviced using mostly standard parts. Under the hood looks stock, because it was the cheapest way to do things. I figured there was no sense in running nice valve covers on an engine with a giant cruise control servo, and factory A/C. Plus, aftermarket A/C and cruise systems that look good cost real money and I don't have a real job. The body is mostly stock, but with cut and flared front fenders which were done in such a way that they look original. The original rocker moldings will be retained, but the landau top, most of the emblems, and the ding strips were all ditched for a smoother look. I had it painted this color before (sans pearl midcoat) with the same trim treatment, and I used to get stopped on the street by people who liked the car.

The paint was chosen because it is a very dramatic color which already shifts from blue to purple in the sun light the way it is. However, I wanted to do something a little different to make it stand out a little more, without doing the whole Chameleon thing of going from one color to a totally different one. It is a more purple blue to begin with, and I think it has a little pearl in the mix as well. It is the factory dark blue for 2002 F bodies and Corvettes, but I wanted to make it more unique. A friend's Mustang Convertible that I painted had a similar effect in the paint, as it was a factory polychrome paint that the paint store added more pearl to the base of and it looked awesome. Not really a pearl job, but unique. ( See pic at bottom)

I may not do it as I am not the most experienced painter out there, and I do fear ruining $700+ worth of paint that I can not afford to do over. Should it turn out bad, I will just make the best of it as I do not have the money to fix it. If I had to do the car again, yes it would be a tragedy. I could not merely repaint over top of the paint I am about to apply, since there would simply be too much paint on the car. I would have to strip it to bare metal or else it would crack. This is why I had to strip some of the car this time (roof, trunk lid, one fender, hood, header panel). I am a little scared about the quarters though as they have the most paint on them. All the others were stripped either this time or the last time I painted it, and some sections of the quarters probably have 3 previous paint jobs on them.

Here's the Mustang I painted with the pearl/polychrome paint:
l_c28b08b4c6f4723f65db134c6b101b77.jpg
 
IIRC I've seen a Monte painted a similar color. I think with the right wheels and stance you could pull that off for a nice street machine/performance build. Super flushed out black 17's with a nice poished lip front and rear on a chassis with minimal wheel gap would look sick.

I would strongly recommend a quality body shop laying the paint. Actually laying the paint is the easy part, the body work is really what makes/breaks a car's final look. You can take a car and make the body perfect and paint it almost any color in the world and it will look nice. But, bad body work is hard to cover even with the best paint in the world.
 
I will be spraying it myself as I have 0 faith in the ability of anyone else to do what I want cheaply. I have gotten it right before, and will do it again. Plus, the money is not in the budget to pay anyone. If I did, I would not have the money for my mortgage payment. I am doing the car partially torn down so that I can do it as GM did when the car was new. The fenders, hood, quarter extension, mirrors, bumper covers and header panel will all be done off the car. The paint will be done in 2 stages as the booth I rent is not big enough to do it in one. Last time I did a car in this fashion, I was there for 24 hours straight between masking, spraying, and switching to the next session.

As for the body work, I would put mine up against the best in the business. I am a perfectionist with it, and the car will go through two complete blockings with primer/surfacer to ensure it is as straight as I can make it. I will easily have over 400 hours in the body when it is done, as I can't stand even the most minor of flaws in my work.
 
Sometime before August is the goal as I need to have it done before I go back to school. My goal for the summer is to have it painted, wet sanded and buffed, and the body assembled enough that the weatherstripping and trim is all back on it and it leaks no water in a rain storm. The other stuff can be done when I have spare time in the fall, as most of the other things are all one day projects. Sound deadening, wiring the stereo, window tint, installing the cruise control, hooking the A/C back up, interior installation, troubleshooting the power locks, alarm system, etc. It's not a daily driver, so it can sit when I don't have time. Anyhow, I gotta eat then go back to block sanding.

Here's how it looked a few days ago:
l_ec82deca2697f66242acc70af9a3db3d.jpg


(The side windows are junk, so I didn't bother masking them as I have others)
 
looking good man ... real smooth. i honestly think the cutlass has one of best lines out of all the g-bodies. and when they're fixed up right they can look sick. i can't wait to see it b/c i'm using yours as inspiration my friend.

are you gonna' leave all the trim chrome or do you plan on "blacking" it all out?
 
All the trim will be there except for most of the emblems and the ding strips. I also ditched the landau top, and blacked out portions of the grilles and headlight doors. I think the trim kind of makes these cars, since they lack a lot of distinct character lines. I also kept the Brougham interior for now, since it is in good shape and I don't have the money to put something else in and do it right. Bucket seats may be cooler than a bench, but ratty, mismatched buckets are not as cool as a mint condition bench. Plus, I really want some vintage Recaros upholstered in the OEM materials so that they match the rest of the car.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor