Advice on rebuild of Carb

[Audio96]

Got a 86 Cutlass with Rochester QuadrajeQuadrant. Original carb ..... a bit leaky and tired. Do I.....
1) Buy a rebuilt one?
2) Send mine in and get rebuilt?

Want to keep car stock and not mess with Aftermarket.

Looking for recommened places to buy a rebuild or reputable place to get it rebuilt.

Thanks!

 

[69hurstolds]

The "big box store" type of rebuilts usually aren't worth spit. Avoid them if you can. They may SAY it fits your car, but typically it's a jellybean carb with jellybean parts in a generic way.

Suggestion- if you want to keep YOUR carb, and I would advise that, everything else being equal, and you want to simply restore what you have, you can try www.everyday-performance.com and roughly for the price of a rebuilt unit, you can get YOUR carb back and know that it should be in much better running shape than when you sent it in. Q-jet rebuilders are getting harder and harder to find. Good ones anyway.

And please do NOT get a friggin' E-brock carb. That's a cop out. Gag me with a fork.

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

Send your original carb in for a rebuild. Never exchange it for a reman carb.

 

[57 Handyman]

Contact Mountain Man at the link below:

Home | Mountain Man Fuel Systems LLC 479-639-2022 Hackett Arkansas Text or Call

www.mountainmanfuelsystemsllc.com

Many of the owners on El Camino Central swear by this rebuilder.

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

Another thing is after the carb is rebuilt, you will still need to do final tuning yourself. You will need at least a old analog dwell meter to set ifle speeds and air / fuel mixture dwell. The TPS adjustment will also need to be checked with a voltmeter orsn old Alltest Brainmaster scanner. Most mechcanics these days ard clueless about tuning carbs.

 

[CrammerGram69]

Rebuild. The new ones ain't that special and your Qjet can easily compete against a Holley/Edelbrock. They are really good carbs if you know how to tune them correctly.

 

[86LK]

Another thing is after the carb is rebuilt, you will still need to do final tuning yourself. You will need at least a old analog dwell meter to set ifle speeds and air / fuel mixture dwell. The TPS adjustment will also need to be checked with a voltmeter orsn old Alltest Brainmaster scanner. Most mechcanics these days ard clueless about tuning carbs.

usually not even then if done by Mountain Man. they ask EVERYTHING about your car. rear gears, camshaft, engine, transmission, intended usage. and it comes back clean enough to eat off of. only thing I've heard that had to be adjusted was idle screw and only a half-turn at that. most customers are saying it works right out of the box as shipped by MM

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

usually not even then if done by Mountain Man. they ask EVERYTHING about your car. rear gears, camshaft, engine, transmission, intended usage. and it comes back clean enough to eat off of. only thing I've heard that had to be adjusted was idle screw and only a half-turn at that. most customers are saying it works right out of the box as shipped by MM

It should be close but its wise to double check the adjustments. Main thing are the idle speeds and air / fuel mixture dwell via the idle air bleed valve. Anytime the TPS is replaced it needs to be adjusted, and if you readjust the idle speed the TPS will also need readjusting, nothing difficult.

 

[Ribbedroof]

Make sure you fill out those TPS reports after you adjust the idle speed.......

On a serious note, I have used MountanMan, and would do so again

 

[69hurstolds]

TPS voltages may be close out of the box, but you really need to check them. If your TPS is off by even a few hundredths of a volt, your ECM power enrichment (happens around 86% throttle where it disregards the O2 sensor above that) won't come in at the right time, also you can have TCC lockup/kick out happen at weird times, or not at all. And you can't afford a 307 to lose ANY power. A 5V (roughly- this is the part that can vary between cars) reference signal is sent to the TPS, and the TPS resistor is changed by the throttle position.

But the TPS case has to be placed in the correct spot. On the high step of the fast idle cam you have to adjust it to 0.52 Volts output going back to the ECM. Of course, you have to get the fast idle set right for it to be correct....you can see real quick on why everything has to work together in the CCC system. Unless you do a check, you'll never know where you're actually at with the carb settings. I don't care WHO rebuilds it. Yeah, they can get it close, but you always need to do a final dial-in check on your particular application. The CCC carbs are very touchy and need to be set EXACTLY as GM procedures dictate to maximize the driveability and efficiency of the carb.