So my project kind of sat for the last year and I finally got back to it the other day. I have a 403 in an 86 cutlass with headers, and a comp 268 cam. The intake manifold is factory 403, I removed the EGR tubes and plugged them, the intake has been drilled for the temp sensors, and I have all my vacuum lines hooked up properly. After sitting the needle and seat went bad in the carburetor and it was flooding out the engine at idle. I took the car apart, and took 100 pics while doing so then I soaked everything in chem dip for 24-48 hours per part. The carb was squeeky clean after that, but to be sure I blew out all the holes with carb cleaner. Then I reassembled everything ,put the carb on the car, and changed my spark plugs. The car has fantastic throttle response but now it wont idle. If I disconnect the plug on the MC valve, and keep my foot on the gas I can get it to idle around 1500 rpm. If I leave it plugged in, I have to rev it even higher. I pulled the spark plugs out and all of them are bright white, so I know its not loading up at idle. My guess is its incredibly lean. When I rebuilt the carb I didn't know the little screw that holds the MC valve down was an adjustment until after wards. I ended up tightening the screw all the way down till it was snug. So I think that is where I need to start. Problem is I dont know what tools to get to adjust it does anyone have the part numbers?
Another CCC Carb question
- Thread starter 86cutlassrules
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In the rebuild kit it says there's a hollow tube im supposed to push down into the opening then adjust the screws. considering you just used rods, did u just adjust for best vacuum?
I adjusted mine with the air horn off the carb.
I set it up to the gage dimensions that were listed in the factory service manual.
I checked plugs on mine yesterday. I went from black, soot-covered electrodes to a nice tan/gray color in less than a week of driving after setting it up according to the service manual.
I set it up to the gage dimensions that were listed in the factory service manual.
I checked plugs on mine yesterday. I went from black, soot-covered electrodes to a nice tan/gray color in less than a week of driving after setting it up according to the service manual.
A 403 is going to want alot more fuel at idle than a stock CCC carb will allow. The CCC carbs from the swirlport engines like you have are even worse. You really need to have the whole idle circuit modded. Try this though, turn the idle air bleed ( the big flathead screw on top of the carb ) and screw it all the way down. This won't allow more fuel in but it will choke off all the excess air to give you a better A/F ratio....at least it did on my car.
Joe just helped me out and sent the adjustment procedures. The seem to rely about 90% on a tube shaped gauge, I think I found the right stuff thought. Before I order them I just want to make sure these are the tools I need http://www.autozone.com/autozone/access ... 59562_0_0_
Yep, those look like what you need.
The flexible screwdriver with interchangeable tips for GM, Mopar and other idle air screws is very handy, too.
The flexible screwdriver with interchangeable tips for GM, Mopar and other idle air screws is very handy, too.
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