ok my goal for the winter is to at absolute least have all of the body work done on my regal and hopefully painted. the car is torn completely apart right now and i want a proffesional looking paint job, i am no pro but i have painted cars in the past and i have taken auto body classes back in college so i have a idea of whats going on. question 1, can i spray each part such as the door detached from the car? say i get my doors ready for paint and they are off of the car, can i spray them and then set them off to the side and move on to the next part? or is it best to paint all the jambs and fire wall ...... and then assemble the car then paint it? question 2, i am painting my car with house of kolors lake violet pearl, how many quarts will i need to order to paint the car including the door jambs and fire wall..... ? question 3, what primers/sealers should i use if i am taking it down to bare metal and maybe having the car sit for a long period of time before it actually gets painted? do i need to reprime before spraying paint to get chemical adhesion? any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
any bodymen out there?? i have questions!! need help!!!!
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Yes you can paint parts off the car individually, helps if you paint them all at the same time though. Watch out putting them back on though, easy to ding the paint. I am painting all my jams, hood, and trunk. Though I havent done it yet the guy who painted it only needed one gallon. Not sure on the primer though, but i did leave my car sitting along time with primer and all we had to do is re-wet sand it again.
If you are using a pearl paint, I would not paint the pieces independently. The pearl will lay down differently on the pieces and look off. The only ways around this are: Paint the jambs and under the trunk, then reassemble it and scuff and paint over it. This way, you get full coverage and it matches. Or, the other way is to paint them off the car in the same plane and at the same relative height as they would be on the assembled car. BTW, as far as I can determine, GM painted them with the doors and trunk attached, but the front clip was done piece by piece then assembled to the substructure then bolted to the car. This is how I am doing my car, painting the jambs with the car assembled and all of the windows and hardware removed. It actually comes out really well because removing the front clip gives excellent access to the front edge of the doors and jambs, and the rest is easy to reach with the doors open. Remove the latches and you can swing them open and shut without touching the visible paint ( just the structure under the upholstery)
As for primers, get a good epoxy primer/surfacer. The epoxy primer will not let moisture bleed through like lacquer primer will. You could also use a urethane primer/surfacer. I would consult HOC to see what they recommend with their paint. The amount of paint required depends on a number of factors, including the color being sprayed, the gun used and the skill of the operator. If the color is translucent, you will need a solid undercoat in a complimentary solid color. I had to do this when I sprayed a pearl blue on a Mustang convertible because it would take like 12 coats to get full hiding otherwise. It is also important to note that different brands of paint have different levels of hiding and may take more paint to cover. ( PPG's discount Omni line is notorious for poor hiding while their Deltron line traditionally has been better, but it has been reformulated into a low VOC formula so this may no longer be true)
As for primers, get a good epoxy primer/surfacer. The epoxy primer will not let moisture bleed through like lacquer primer will. You could also use a urethane primer/surfacer. I would consult HOC to see what they recommend with their paint. The amount of paint required depends on a number of factors, including the color being sprayed, the gun used and the skill of the operator. If the color is translucent, you will need a solid undercoat in a complimentary solid color. I had to do this when I sprayed a pearl blue on a Mustang convertible because it would take like 12 coats to get full hiding otherwise. It is also important to note that different brands of paint have different levels of hiding and may take more paint to cover. ( PPG's discount Omni line is notorious for poor hiding while their Deltron line traditionally has been better, but it has been reformulated into a low VOC formula so this may no longer be true)
yes it is, but pearls are even worse than regular metallics. Candies are by far the worst of all to get to match. He stated he was using a HOC pearl paint system, so that is what I was addressing. I paint pieces independently with some trepidation, but when using an OEM color it will usually match if it is laid down in the same plane. My GM Navy Blue Metallic paint is a mild pearl and will be done in pieces, but this is not a custom paint, just a good quality urethane base/clear.
i know that the pearl is harder to spray but isnt your pearl normally in a mid coat rather then in the base coat?? i used single stage before that was a similar color with pearl in it and the pearl came out decent...... maybe i should be going for a metallic color instead to simplfy it a little.
set car in etching primer on bare metal the use a good high build urethane primer over that if the car is going to sit in primer for a while, i would sand with 220 wet and do any additional body work, then re-primer and final sand a day or so before you paint. primer has pores which open after you sand and can be easily contamanated and ruin a paint job, it sucks to do all that work for a crappy result i know did it on a 73 camaro abuot 5 yrs ago. hope this helps
I have sprayed a few cars with pearl factory paint, and there are some that do not use a midcoat. They typically are not as readily noticable as being pearl, but do have a mild color shift in different light. I think the more accurate term for them is polychrome. The Mustang I did in medium collissione blue poly, had pearl in it. They told us that it did when they mixed the paint. I know that my Olds in "Navy Blue Metallic" had a blue to purple color shift in the light, and think it has pearl in the base as well. I thought about doing a purple pearl midcoat as well with it to really make it stand out, but decided against it as there is too much that can go wrong, and it would be difficult to patch when it is done.
Oh, and I also used Medium Adriatic Blue Poly in a previous paint job on my G body ( I am prepping for the 3rd time I have painted the thing right now...). It too seemed to have the pearl effect in it. ( I do a lot of blue or white paint jobs...lol)
I will also second the etching primer as the base over bare metal. Then just use a good 2k urethane primer as your sanding base, but be sure it is compatible with the paint system you plan to use. Consult HOC to see what they recommend. If it is too expensive, a relatively cheap 2K is Nason's Select Prime. it's around $100 for a gallon of primer and it's hardener. If you go this route, use a sealer over top of it before you spray the paint to avoid any compatibility issues.
Oh, and I also used Medium Adriatic Blue Poly in a previous paint job on my G body ( I am prepping for the 3rd time I have painted the thing right now...). It too seemed to have the pearl effect in it. ( I do a lot of blue or white paint jobs...lol)
I will also second the etching primer as the base over bare metal. Then just use a good 2k urethane primer as your sanding base, but be sure it is compatible with the paint system you plan to use. Consult HOC to see what they recommend. If it is too expensive, a relatively cheap 2K is Nason's Select Prime. it's around $100 for a gallon of primer and it's hardener. If you go this route, use a sealer over top of it before you spray the paint to avoid any compatibility issues.
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