If you plan to sell it, the guys who are really interested in it, will want to inspect the block bare. I would do what you can to prevent it from rusting, and clean it up ready to inspect. Or if you want to make it pretty, you could always take a ton of pictures, and seal it up/paint it. The stuff buyers would want to know is basically what a machine shop would check when they are selecting a good core. Bores out of round? main bores in spec? crank reusable? etc etc... among other things like core shift of the lifters.
Look for cracks at the base of where the rockers mount, the early heads were prone to cracking there, especially if they are 430 heads. (Yours are 1970 455 heads).
There are basically 2 animals of heads. The open chambers (bad) and the closed chambers (good). You have closed chambers. They are otherwise more or less identical, with the 1970 having the highest flow, largely due to the valve size. The early years also had the Stage1 valve option, which you do not, identifiable by the "heart shaped" combustion chamber.
The later blocks had slightly better casting processes and slightly bigger oiling passages, but with the heads, and the block you have, its a desirable combination for someone looking for cores. As they sit, you maybe able to part them out for around $600. I have bought complete running engines from $200 to $500. If you got it crack tested by a shop, it would bump the value up slightly, but more importantly people will feel more reassured when buying. ie: more customers.
http://www.buickperformanceclub.com/455Blocknmbrs.htm
http://www.buickperformanceclub.com/455hdcompare.htm
Final comment, its just an engine, so yea you need to take special care to make sure you build it within the recommended specs, but no need to get all aboard the stigma train of how these engines are so special that you cant build them unless you have some kind of divine blessing BS.