Anyone ever do a b*st*rd engine swap?

Status
Not open for further replies.
A couple of general comments on engine swaps:

1) Swap the engine and trans as a unit. It's much easier to build a custom driveshaft with different ends than to build a bellhousing adapter.

2) Use the motor mounts designed for the engine and build frame mounts. The factory motor mounts are designed to work with the loads and vibrations generated by the motor they're designed for. Welding up new metal frame mounts are easy.

3) Oil pan mods are common. You need to use common sense. For example, don't create "dead spots" that can't drain. Be sure the pickup is in the sump. Be careful about crank clearance. You want to have the pan bolted to a block before welding to limit heat-induced warpage.
 
b*st*rd swaps

We put a Ford unit in the AMX because it was there!. It was a no budget job using whatever was availble. In the UK you cant go to the local junkyard & pick up American car parts - try looking for british car parts in a US junkyard.
The most extreme cases I think might be found in Cuba, a lot of 50's American tin is now powered by Russian Lada motors. They are stopped with home made brake fluid as well. The recipe for brake fluid is a concoction of shampoo, rum and sugar. Apparently brown sugar works best with American cars, use white sugar for Russian vehicles.
Necessity is the mother of invention!
 
For the pan, I was going to use a universal sump kit from Moroso ( I think that's who makes it) that makes it a "T" shaped pan because I need to shorten the rear sump and do not want to kill capacity. I could also run it as a front sump as well because it is a Ford, but the rear sump looks easier to do as all I need to do is rerlocate the front sway bar in front of the crossmember. One from a Fox Ford seems to be the best choice for the front mount, but I will find out when I actually buy the car, engine, etc and try to get them to work together. I also need t orelocate the master cylinder to resolve interference issues with the valve cover. I am thinking of using the 90 degree mount used I believe in a Chevy van and adapt the BMW master and the Hydroboost from a BMW 5 or 7 series or the hydroboost from a T Bird SC as it is aluminum and lighter.
 
sounds like you've got your rig pretty well planned and thought out. Hell I am even wanting to see it finished if not work on it myself. Your right about the t-5s performance being spotty (which is why I like to use the word usually), I have just seen many more fail than stay together. Now I'm wanting to go do some huge swapping myself, how's a Ferrari powered G-body grab ya? Lol! Way too expensive for my bank roll, but one can always wish right?
 
ya I've seen that before. there is a guy with a red 740 station wagon with a LS7 in it. the engine cost 10x the value of the car. That's just dumb. also PIPES had a RS7 with a LS2 in it. ricer with an American heart.
 
Since I am on my BMW kick, I'll post this 1,000hp twin turbo V12 3 series video I found http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_6OedKNUX8 I mean, look at the size of that front mount intercooler!!!

P.S. .....Anyone who REALLY wants to see this thing built, I am accepting donations of parts or a broken 84-91 3 series BMW 2 door with a manual transmission....🙂

I also have all of my research and ideas posted on my Myspace blog if anyone wants to read them. It's disorganized but all there.
 
Hats off to the Volvette, that is indeed a b*st*rd child if I ever saw one!!!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor