Anyone have the antihop brackets for diff?

[LS1GN]

I have a lot of wheelspin even with a stock 700R and drag radials.

Just what the subject says - the Edelbrock brackets that re-locate the upper control arms on top of the pumpkin - do they work?

 

[LS1GN]

anyone?

 

[shotgun]

"do they work?'

Always, sometimes, well never.

Really need more info about your combo to give an answer worth anything.

 

[LS1GN]

"...

Really need more info about your combo to give an answer worth anything.

LCAs are about 0 deg UCAs are also about 0 deg, the triangulated point is somewhere out past the front bumper. I get some squat but this is weight transfer that quickly unloads and I have a LOT of wheelspin, but I can't detect much "hopping"..

Have stock front suspension with new stock shocks all the way around. LS motor is right at 400 horse / 400 ft lbs at the crank,

 

[UMI Performance]

We relocate the lower control arms with brackets, not the uppers. But it is the same theory, moving the instant center rearward. I hear the upper mounts can cause exhaust clearance issues, I don't know what systems this pertains too. Below is an example of the lower brackets:

www.umiperformance.com/3010

What are your power levels now and 60' times?

The nice thing about the lower brackets is they offer you four settings, stock and then three holes lower.

I hope that helps,
Ryan

 

[drogg1]

relocating the upper control arm mounts on the rear and relocating the lower control arm mounts on the rear are not exactly the same theory. Moving the upper control arm mount on the rear higher, which is what the edelbrock antihop bars do, lower the instant center, possibly to the point of creating less than 100% anti-squat which could make the rear squat on launch. Relocating the lower control arm mounts by lower the mount on the rear raises the instant center, then creating possible a situation where there is more than 100% anti-squat which would make the rear raise on launch and plant the tires harder. Yes they both decrease the distance or length of the instant center, so in a sense they are related, but they achieve different things in terms of how the suspension acts.

If the OP is trying to have the car squat less on launch as the rear quickly unloads, if I'm thinking correctly, he should use the lower control arm relocating brackets to raise his instant center and achieve a higher percentage of anti-squat and thus have the rear squat less on launch.

Also, you could probably stand to change out for some adjustable shocks as they will help you to allow some more weight transfer to possibly gain some more traction.

Here's a decent article on basics: http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/info ... ag_Car.htm

Feel free to jump in if I'm wrong.

 

[LS1GN]

Thanks!

I'll do more homework before I spend $$$ to remedy this problem.

 

[JBreu]

Is this a street car, strip car or a lil of both???? I also have a lil spin off the line as well....I also have stock suspension. I plan of putting Moroso Trick Springs on all four corners and getting Lakewood Drag Shocks in the spring...I think this will make the car hook much better, thus eliminating wheel spin...I think that might just be the fix your looking for 8)

 

[454cutlass]

i had major wheel hop on my stock set up. changed everything so i dont know if any one thing would have corrected it. i put in moroso trick springs Competition Engineering drag shocks umi upper and lower box control arms and a ford 9"

have moroso front trick springs 0 miles on them. after install noticed the front was sitting on bump stops. my front is to heavy to have them dont know part # off hand. if interested let me know. in org box to

 

[Phoenyx]

I've heard the anti-hop bars are only good up to about 350 HP. After that, if you hook, they can actually cause the rear tires to jump right off the ground on a hard launch.