Bad on gas emissions - HC, CO, CO2 - with new Qudrajet

[Clone TIE Pilot]

thanks, folks! To claify some points: The car doesn't have a catalyst anymore (had to be demounted) which of course does have some effect on the overall emissions.
So I will
- check vacuum hoses/ vauum leaks (done so in fact already - vacuum is about 17-18 in hg in 'P' which I assume would be fine)
- check proper timing
- check A/F ration under driving conditions (difficult though, as I cannot take the gas tester with me...)
- operation of the smog pump ( you mean the EGR?)
- Valve timing and camshaft specs will become more difficult for me to test ...

Maybe I should *ss that the engine is running extremely poor when it's cold and feels prone to turn off (in fact it alread happened). May this hint to the operation of the choke system (electrical choke by now)?
Well, yes, regarding the environmental consience you're right for sure, I shouldn't be driving that old stuff anyway and yes, there are companies harming our environment even more. But I sense that cleaner combustion would yimply a smoother engine operation too adn hram the engine less....

Check intake manifold gaskets.
Check carb mounting gasket.
Check for vacuum leaks around worn throttle valve shafts.

 

[gbody79malibu]

Smog pump refers to the A.I.R(Air Injection Reactor) pump. Do you have small steel tubes going into your exhaust manifolds that also go to a belt driven pump on the front of the engine? If so that is the A.I.R system. Not all cars had them.
The catalytic converter has a large impact on tail pipe emissions.
As far as the poor idle I would start with checking the EGR valve for proper operation. If it leaks just a little at idle you will have a rough running engine. If it fails completely the engine will Either run extremely bad, not run or you will have pinging.
Does your engine have heat riser valves in the exhaust manifolds? Many times they stick and cause driveability issues.
A leak down test can help locate internal engine wear.
Yes you must check ignition timing, Spark plugs, wire, cap and rotor must be checked as well to be sure they are in good condition.
As far as the choke it should start out closed on a cold start then slowly it should open fully. They can be adjusted to open faster or slower but usually the factory setting works fine.
Besides the catalytic converter what other emissions equipment has been removed?

Regarding the small steel tubes, I couldn't trace any, so I assume my does not car an air injection reactor (AIR) pump.
The EGR valve is a very good hint indeed, thanks! Here's the story to that: many people overe here told me that the EGR probably wouldn't work fine due to pollution inside (well, of course no one seems to know how to clean these) etc. So I de-activated the EGR by unplugging the vacuum hose from the carb and closing the hose on the EGR side. In my understanding this shouldn't negatively affect the engine operation (although, of course, it will have some effect on the emissions).

Another thing I found out just the other day and which certainly does have an effect: cylinder 7 features a POOR compression ratio of just below 6:1 (see file)!! The other cylinders are good in case I shall assume that a 9.0:1 compression ratio is a decent value for our engines (305 cui, late 70's model)?