Battle of Japanese Drift Beaters: AE-86 vs S13!

[beermonkey9417]

for the miata look at monstermiata.com. they have a kit you can buy to install a 302 v8 from a mustang. stacy david on geasz did one called the banshe and it looks bad *ss! its also got like 400+hp. for a car that small with that much power i think it would be a great candidate for a drift car.

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

I would kill for a Datsun PL510. Sadly, I have been looking for one in my price range (cheap) for 10 years with no luck.As far as the 200sx S12 is concerned, it is not as good a car as the S13 due to having a dated rear suspension. It also was not the last RWD 200sx, as there was a S13 200sx sold in Australia and New Zeland. The lineage of the 200sx continued in the US until the S14, and the S15 in other parts of the world. The B14 Sentra based 200sx was only called that here. In Japan it went by another name that escapes me right now, but it was never called a Sunny. That much I do know.

To me, a 302 powered Miata has no appeal. It ruins the one thing the Miata has going for it: balance. All that extra weight over the Mazda B6 engine ruins the handling of the Miata. For my money, there are 2 swaps I would consider in a Miata: 13B rotary or SR20DET. I don't like RB swaps for the same reason. They place the weight too far forward of the front axle centerline as opposed to the KA or SR engines. Upsetting the balance in a car with perfect 50/50 weight distribution is a crime. (no offense intended). I have never done any drifting (yet), but I love to do grip driving, and screwing up the weight balance like this will only make the car push in the corners.

Weight distribution one of my pet problems with the G body chassis too. I can minimize it somewhat, but it will never cease to be an issue without going to a shorter engine like a V6, but the V6's I can afford don't have enough power. Thus my next step to better my car will be a swap to aluminum heads of some sort. Not for more power, but for less weight on the nose. Heck, I have even considered making the G body AWD with the AWD system from a Safari/Astro/ Cyclone/Typhoon, or using the rear transaxle from a C5 or C6 Corvette, but it's beyond my finances.

 

[andrewmp6]

The bp 1.8 miata you can turbo and build up.They do make a alum 302 block but its not cheap.The s12 was the last rwd 200sx in the usa.The name you can't think of is probably the bluebird.I had a 70 510 about 6 years ago paid 3 grand for it but it was ragged out and a lot of rust.But good luck finding a 240sx that's not been ragged out or beat up from drifting.But i will warn you if you get a 240sx and you build a lot of power you need to brace up the rear cross member the whole rear suspension bolts t😵n mine it had 3 cracks in it mostly from my lead foot but bracing it up ain't hard.Since you like rotaries why not a early rx7?There small light and kinda cheap to buy.

 

[jonnyslick]

You got that backwards the rb20 has the worse flowing head out of the rb and the 2nd worse transmission also.I had a s13 with a rb25det stroked to a 2.8 tomei cams and pretty much everything they made for the rb25 with a t66 on it.Once i caught traction not much could keep up with me.But for all that money i spent a ls1 with bolt ons would have made the same power and cheaper.What about a datsun 510 or the nissan s12 the last rwd 200sx.

You sir are an idiot ... well ... most likely a sheep and just want to follow the crowd. RB26 > RB20 > RB25 all day. And an S12? Who in God's green earth would recomend that? I've had two friends use them in the past and both of them drifted very well in them, but both of them said they'd never advise anyone to buy one. They only used them b/c they already owned the cars. I tried the S12 and with the rear suspension design, they are very difficult. More-so than my miata was.

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

No, the Bluebird in 1995-99 would have been the equivalent of the US Altima, only it had the SR20DET (AKA BB DET) optional with AWD (U12 chassis code). Since you made me look it up, the JDM equivalent to the USDM 200sx (B14) would have been the Lucino. Trust me, I used to be one of the top 5 posters on Nissan Forums.com out of over 10k members ( I specialized in D22 Frontiers and B13-14 Sentras) and I know the subject.

Oh, and gievn the choice of RB's, I'd build a hybrid of an RB30E short block and a RB26DETT head. The RB30E if you didn't know, was used by Holden of Australia in the VL Commodore, and also in some JDM models of Nissans. They were mostly single cam engines though.

Sorry, I haven't slept and just screwed up a test in calculus, so I am a bit agitated rt now.

 

[jonnyslick]

yeah RB30 is the best ... and you can stroke that too as well. but that's a hard one to get, even in AU the RB30 bottoms are getting hard to find from what my friends are telling me.

i had a B13 sentra i used for togue for about 3 years. that was the most neutral FF car i've ever driven, my scirocco was a close 2nd.

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

I have wanted a B13 SE-R for the longest time as I feel it's the best Sentra ever made. Light weight, 4 wheel independent suspension, LSD, SR20DE engine, etc. My last Sentra was a 1995 GXE auto that I rebuilt from a $350 wreck. The only mods to it were the stock front sway bar from a 200SX SE, and a CAI (I had AD22VF brakes waiting, but I totalled it before I could find some cheap wheels and tires to allow me to fit them). I had a friend of mine with a heavily modified 5.0 Mustang next to me in the passenger's seat and scared the sh*t out of him in it. I was turning into his neighborhood and he assumed the braced position and said something like "What The ****!!" because of how fast I was turning in. After I made the turn, he said that my Sentra could out handle his Mustang. I was on 175 70 R13's!!! His Mustang, has a trunk mount battery, subframe connectors, roll bar, 17 in wheels, was lowered, had tubular control arms, fiberglass hood, etc. I hated the automatic in the Sentra because of the limitations imposed by it, but that car ( like my truck) taught me how to corner fast and conserve momentum because it was hard to regain speed again once it was lost. It also helps that I am half nuts behind the wheel of any car I have delivered with as I tend to push the limits to fend off boredom.

Right now I am trying to learn how to do heel and toe downshifts properly. I was watching Keiichi Tuschaiya (spelled wrong!!!) do it on a drift video and it dawned on me why it had never worked for me before: I need a accelerator pedal extension to reach it with my heel (I wear a size 13). I did manage to get it to work right delivering pizza last night a few times and man, what a difference! It really stabilized my corner exit.

 

[jrm81bu]

It also helps that I am half nuts behind the wheel of any car I have delivered with as I tend to push the limits to fend off boredom.

I hear that!

 

[andrewmp6]

I'm the idiot huh i had a rb before you could drive.The rb20det is limited to 400hp that is all the head will flow and no other head will fit it.You should learn to look things up ask any real aussie a rb20det is a boat anchor.The rb30 is getting pricey now but you can take a rb25/rb26 to a 2.8 but its not cheap either.Only thing i hate about imports the cost to make 400hp isn't cheap.If you do get a 240sx what about making a ca20det to be different.

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

I have been driving since 1989, when I was 15, and have managed to drive 600,000+ miles since then. I find it highly unlikely you had an RB much before that unless you lived in Japan and were driving an R31 or R32. If you were not referring to me then I am sorry. I am a bit of an ******* today because I haven't slept more than 4 hours in 3 days. I realize now that I posted things that made me sound angry, and I should not have done that. I truly apologize for any offense I may have caused.

On the original subject, both cars are available in my local area if I should choose to buy one, and both are reasonable and lacking rust. I found several of each for $500-1500. The Corolla AE-86 would likely be a better delivery car since it uses a much smaller engine ( 1.6 liter 4A-GE vs 2.4 liter Nissan KA) for better fuel economy, and even the swaps are not too pricey or difficult. I found the 20 valve (5 valves per cylinder!!!!, ITB's!!!!) version of the 4A-GE for $600 with harness and everything from a FWD car, so figure $1,000 to make it happy and running if I were to go there.