Best fuel sys alternative, electric vs mech

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G-Body_Vet

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 15, 2010
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I'm looking for the least painful way to go about fuel delivery. My GP came with a 305, but a Pontiac 350 is going in until the 455 is ready.

Issue #1: Fuel line from tank is on the opposite side in the car
a. Run new lines from the tank?
b. Extend the line to the opposite side of the car?
c. Go to an electric pump and eliminate extra routing?

Issue #2: No factory return line. Only a delivery line and a vapor line, each on opposite sides.
a. Stock style Pontiac pumps have a return provision, the SBC pump did not. I tried capping a return outlet from a stock pump in the past and it still leaked....so not an option IMO.
b. Try a mechanical aftermarket pump with no return outlet?
c. Go electric and don't bother with a return line?

The electric one I'm checking out is a Mr. Gasket 95H...on sale at Summit right now for $59, reg price is $129. It's supposedly a Holley Blue replacement. Rated at 95gph @ 7psi. I may need to run a regulator for use with the Q-jet. I've never been sold on Mr. Gasket stuff so I'm a little leery of that.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-95H/

The factory mechanical pump is a Carter Gm 6122. Rated at 120gph, 5.5-6.5psi
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRT-M6122/?rtype=10

And then there's a mechanical aftermarket that I can successfully cap the return outlet. Would vapor lock become an issue in the summer though?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-250010-1/?rtype=7

Well anyway, just looking for ideas, experiences and suggestions. Feel free to chime in. I want to do this right the first time without any half-assed, rigged up looking lines.
 

sonix

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Mar 8, 2010
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I would highly recommend running new lines, on whichever side of the car is easiest/closer to the engine. Run a 1/2" supply, and a 3/8" return, and use a return style mechanical pump. Ensure your lines are far enough from the exhaust that you won't have vapor lock problems. **IF** you end up having vapor lock problems, you can always add a low pressure electric pump in-line close to the tank. It'll pressurize the line up to the pump, effectively "priming" it, which effectively eliminates vapor lock.

With a 455 in the future, a 1/2" supply line is only *slightly* overkill, but why not while you're doing it?
 

G-Body_Vet

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 15, 2010
2,937
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I've heard of people starving built 455's with 3/8" lines before as well. Mine won't be anything too serious, estimating 425-450hp when done.

I think I really wanted to avoid running new lines but it's probably going to be my best bet, not to mention one less thing I have to worry about later on anyway. I'll probably go with a Carter 6907 pump. It's seems to be a hp pontiac standard before shelling out funds for a Robbmc unit.
 

dogsht

Royal Smart Person
Nov 11, 2008
2,003
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Dayton, OH
One benefit of the g-body over older muscle cars is that some came with fuel injection. So the parts new & used are out there to cheaply and easily upgrade to modern in-tank electric fuel pump setup (like a new Corvette has) using a used GN/Ttype/4.3TBI Monte tank & fuel pump hanger/sending unit or aftermarket replacement. No fabricating no welding.

New fuel tanks & sending units are available at http://www.eBaymotors.com for cheap just search keyword Grand National fuel tank.

Plug n play high performance fuel pump & wiring at http://WWW.racetronix.com. Click the Grand National pumps link.

If you are using a carberator you also need a return style fuel pressure regulator such as the Mallory 4309. You turn the fuel pressure up or down with a small allen wrench. http://www.jegs.com has pics & prices. Search keyword mallory 4309. They also have a 25 foot roll of aluminum 3/8" fuel line to run your return line for a few bucks. The pump & 3/8" line will support up to 600HP and the line can easily be bent by hand and tied with zip ties or better if you prefer.

Your local autoparts should have an in line fuel filter for an early 90s 350 TPI Camaro in stock which is cheap n easy.

Its cheaper, easier, safer, quieter, and will last longer than the old conversion method with a noisy out of tank gravity fed electric pump & sump or cell that you commonly see on a home built drag car. Discrete & quiet as their is no pump hanging down between your tank and bumper waiting to turn you into a fireball the first time somebody doesn't see you stop.

I ran this exact setup on the 442 with the 509 and Q-jet. I mounted the fuel pressure regulator on the frame between the engine and the radiator. I put a T in with a line and a fuel pressure guage in between the regulator and the carberator so that I could mount the guage under my wiper blade on occation to be able to watch my fuel pressure running down the track. With the Q-jet I set my pressure at 5 1/4 psi and it would stay rock steady all the way down the track with never so much as a sput out of the motor as the carb bowl stayed full but not over pressurised. 3,800 pounds 110 mph.

You can also see pics of this setup on Bobs car at http://www.robertpowersmotorsports.com. Bobs "road car" (455 Cutlass with overdrive & Q-jet) also ran low 12s at 110 mph in the quarter still tuneing before it was stolen.
 

G-Body_Vet

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 15, 2010
2,937
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Thanks for the input. I looked into that route in the past when I kicked around the idea of EFI. It's still up in the air right now. As for the 350 goes; I have to fight with extracting a broken water pump bolt today. It's flush, has a broken drill bit inside it and all I have to heat it up is a bottle of Mapp gas.
 
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