Body mount complete kit

carnutjw

carnutjw

Greasemonkey
Sep 17, 2017
179
63
Don't know where your at with washers, but here's what I did.

I'm with Cdunigan on this one. I don't understand how spraying with penetrant does anything unless the bushing is gone enough that you can get the nozzle up to nut/bolt or access from the top side. I am in the process of changing my bushings right now. All bolts came out looking good except driver's #6. The shaft on it was down to about 1/8"(3mm) and snapped off with first small twist. I had to drill it out from the trunk. Told wifey I needed one bolt and she says, "Why don't you just replace all of them?" I love that woman. Bolts on the way from Mike's Montes. Frame areas were only bad at #6 on both sides and #2 passenger, not completely gone, but bad enough I'm going put a washer between the lower bushing and frame. Making washers out of old bushing sleeves. The id of my 1-1/2" hole saw was close enough to od of bushing sleeve to guide the hole saw. After brushing mount areas and spraying with rust converter, driver side is loosely assembled. Just finished prep on passenger side.
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druggles85

druggles85

Greasemonkey
Thread starter
Oct 25, 2009
103
43
Exeter, NH
Hey cool idea. I bought a couple of the repair washers, from dixie I think. Couldn't really get the body high enough off the frame to get in there with a hole saw and weld them flush. I welded them on top of the frame rails and then cut that amount off the top of the poly bushings. #2 passenger side was the worst.
 

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CrammerGram69

CrammerGram69

Greasemonkey
Nov 15, 2019
122
28
Michigan
On the topic of Body mounts. Do they Reproduce any for the 1978 - 81 Pontiac's? Mine is a Le Mans.
Just curious really. My factory ones are pretty Split & Cracked up.
 
CrammerGram69

CrammerGram69

Greasemonkey
Nov 15, 2019
122
28
Michigan
Never knew. Glad to now. The other problem I have is Leave and sh*t keep getting into my rear frame rails, Anything I can do too keep it out? W/o Welding in a patch?
 
ssn696

ssn696

Antique
Supporting Member
Jul 19, 2009
4,462
113
New Mexico
Get a brake line, a tee and a couple of adapters - hook up to an air line. Start deep in the frame rail and blow the leaves out as you pull the line out.
 
M

mc1984ss

Apprentice
May 18, 2020
91
18
As far as getting penetrating oil onto the nut I have a trick. Inside the body, or trunk wherever the body mount happens to be the should be a simple in the sheet metal pointing up. This little dimple is directly above the body mount bolts. I drilled a 1/8" or so hole directly in this dimple so the red straw from penetrating oil could fit inside and spray the nut. I got very lucky I think the #2 mount on the pass side is the only one that didn't come out and that's because the mount on the body was shot anyway. Miraculously all the others came out even the ones that were way necked down from rust. EVery car is different it's possible they all didn't have the dimples above the mount bolts
 
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ssn696

ssn696

Antique
Supporting Member
Jul 19, 2009
4,462
113
New Mexico
Eastwood makes a canned rust converter paint with a 3-foot flexible wand that sprays out radially. The stuff is runny and will escape any hole in the frame, but it gets in where spray guns can’t. Not cheap, of course.
 
Flyers9928

Flyers9928

Master Mechanic
Jul 30, 2014
355
93
South Central Pa
I
Eastwood makes a canned rust converter paint with a 3-foot flexible wand that sprays out radially. The stuff is runny and will escape any hole in the frame, but it gets in where spray guns can’t. Not cheap, of course.
It works great, it’s a bit pricey, but I feel it’s worth it. I would suggest 3-4 cans. I blew the frame out with my leaf blower as I had the rear bumper removed. I duct taped all the holes I could reach before I sprayed. When you done put the nozzle and wand on a can of brake clean and flush. Then you can reuse it.
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