Body twist

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Not all of it, but some of it is. The stuff I mentioned is best handled when doing a thorough respray of the whole car with the glass out as it is fairly intrusive.

As for the new G body frames in storage somewhere in an abandoned factory, just where is this factory located again?...... :twisted:
 
85_455_cutty said:
ok and my engine is suppose to be putting out around 425-450hp if that makes any difference on what im needing to do?

Its not horse power that twists frames, its torque.
 
dan2286 said:
85_455_cutty said:
ok and my engine is suppose to be putting out around 425-450hp if that makes any difference on what im needing to do?

Its not horse power that twists frames, its torque.

Pedantic? :lol: Yes, torque is a measured value while horsepower is a mathematical function defined as : f(x)=(torque x RPM)/5252. This is also why torque ALWAYS equals Horsepower at 5252 RPM.
 
wow i did not realize that, thanks for that valuable peice of information 85!
 
85_455_cutty said:
ok and my engine is suppose to be putting out around 425-450hp if that makes any difference on what im needing to do?

Sounds like you've got a pretty similar set up to me.
I don't think you have to worry too much. Like mentioned before, start with some poly body bushings and then the factory style bracing, and you should be alright. Does your car have T-tops?
 
I will also say that unless you are launching it hard on slicks all the time it probably won't be an issue. We all would love to be able to do more reinforcement of the frames of our cars, but it is sadly not cheap or practical for most of us. Doing it right requires body-frame separation which is a lot of work and requires a bit of space as well. Boxing the frame would require that plus welding skills as would X bracing. Maximize your bolt on bracing and you SHOULD be OK on a street car. These can take a bit more punishment than the super flexible F bodies can with their Unibody construction. They just aren't ready to run 10's without some help first. Heck, given the time and unlimited resources, I would radically change the mechanical aspect of these cars and give them a front engine/rear transaxle configuration like the newer Corvettes have.
 
no my car is a factory hardtop. Do you have to take the body off the frame to do the bushings? And if so can you do it while the engine is still bolted to the frame? My car is mainly a street car with the occasional trip to the track for some fun. i know im gonna race 3 people theyve been waitin for me to get my car done to see if they can beat me. I wont be using slicks though it will just be a street race im sure.
 
Well, the body bushings really don't require much to change them. You basically unbolt one side all the way, then jack up the body under the floor with a long board between the jack and floor to support it. It only needs come up about 2-3 inches at most to change them. The body will pivot on the opposite side's bolts and stay in place. This all works great in theory, but can ruin your day if your car is rusty or a bolt breaks off. I did my car in 1997, when it was still fairly new and it had never seen salt. I also greased the rear frame rails with axle grease after sanding and painting what I could get to in order to protect it from rust. My car was showing signs of rust at the body bushing at the back of the wheel well at that time and I wanted to be sure it didn't get much worse. I only greased the back of the frame where the tires typically kick a lot of dirt up and blast the paint off. It is covered by the body in this spot, so only I know it was done. The grease does hold dirt, but it helps form a rust proof crust around the metal. It is basically British Rustproofing...lol..., so named because of the tendency of those cars to leak oil badly and rust badly in any spot not slicked down by the leaks.
 
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