Brake bleeding problem, low pedal

[shotgun]

Just make yourself one of these.

I fill the m/c and clamp this on with a C-clamp.

Put 20 psi max in,I just hit it with the tire chuck for like 1/2 a second.

It WILL get ugly if you just stick the tire chuck on blast it with 120psi.

Start in the back ,bleed the brakes.

Release the pressure, top off the m/c and repeat on the front,works everytime.

If you are just bleeding,after only losing a small amount of fluid,you can just leave it on and do front and back (this assumes there is the "cut" in the well diver).

On old style m/cs I have to switch it around anyway.

 

[srercrcr]

That's an interested DIY tool. My pickup has a cast MC, so I'm thinking it wouldn't seal real good.

 

[JESSE]

bleeding brakes

if you don't know how a system works you don't stand a chance fixing it cheaply! the proportioning valve is a dual function valve,it keeps the bias between the front and rear brakes and it also keeps you from losing all of the brakes ,if a lose of pressure occurs in the fluid portion of the brakes whether front or rear. when that happens the pin moves to shut off the fluid to the leaking side. so you still have some brakes to stop you!!!your first mistake was to try to pump the system.you should of just open all your bleeders and let gravity do the work for you,but thats water under the bridge now 😀 it's usually the rear that gives you the trouble, check and see if you are getting any pressure at the bleeder if not start the engine and have your buddy ready to open one of the front bleeders you pump the pedal as hard as you can to get all the pruessure on the pedal. now open the bleeder and push the pedal to the floor close the bleeder,shut the motor off,take the cover off the m/c open the rear bleeders and wait ,fluid should start dripping i hope this helps you good luck!!!

 

[shotgun]

My tool (that just sounds wrong :lol: ) has worked on everything from a single pot 1964,you can still see the marks in the rubber,up to mid 80 aluminum m/c.

The rubber only has to seal around the edge,the valvestem seals it's self.

The tricky part is clamping but it has not failed me yet!

 

[BuickGNX1987]

Update

since i posted last time, i took the car out for a few test drives (country road) and saw that although the pedal did go down a little further than i was used to, the car would stop very well, able to lock up front tires. after a few more test drives, and driving about 20 miles from where i was working on the car to where i live, the pedal feels just fine. kind of wierd maybe pads and shoes needed to break in? either way thanks for the responses.