Brake thoughts and questions

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I've never had an issue with G body brakes that are correctly maintained. The factory calipers and rotors with manual master cylinders are still used on dirt stock cars to this day, some guys also use the calipers on the rear. The rear drums work fine as well but you need to be sure the backing plates are in good shape and not rotted around the wheel cylinder hole. In 1995 I rear ended an s10 Blazer with my 1980 Cutlass because a wheel cylinder tore away from the backing plate. The guys hitch tongue hit my header panel right between the grills... Otherwise the brakes are solid in performance for street use. If you're going to autocross then upgrading the brakes would be a good idea. I would like to eventually swap to disc brakes in the rear when I upgrade the rear end. Mostly because parts stores don't stock the shoes and drums.
My 17 year old son just started driving the Cutlass last week and says the brakes feel stronger and more responsive than the modern vehicles he's used to driving. I think the big reason for upgrading to larger brakes is the use of large wheels, when you look through a 17 or 18 inch or bigger wheel the factory rotors look strangely small and the drums just look really bad, in that case I would spend the money for better looks.
 
Also the only G bodies I know of that had real brake issues were the cars with "quick take up" master cylinders. Improper bleeding techniques or a pressure drop that allows the pedal to go to the floor will cause a spongy pedal, master cylinder bore wear was the main issue. The quick take up master cylinders are the type that shoot a geyser when the pedal is pressed. I think their use started in 84 or 85 and were designed to help with fuel economy. The purpose of those MCs were to keep the pads retracted from the rotor so they pushed extra fluid on initial pedal travel in order to quickly take up the gap. I had an 85 Cutlass 4 door with that system and swapped in the MC and calipers from an older parts car. Like many systems on these cars the ideas were good but execution was horrendous.
 
I wonder why anyone bothers with the rear brakes upgrade which sounds like a complete waste of money to me. I will definitely be upgrading my fronts and personally I wonder how it's not a law to upgrade front brakes after increasing rim diameter above 16". Out back I am going to stay stock so pads continue to be cheap and readily available. I wonder why some of you guys with the expensive rear brake upgrades don't just run underdrive pulleys or rev limiters instead?
 
pencero said:
personally I wonder how it's not a law to upgrade front brakes after increasing rim diameter above 16". Out back I am going to stay stock so pads continue to be cheap and readily available. I wonder why some of you guys with the expensive rear brake upgrades don't just run underdrive pulleys or rev limiters instead?
So going to bigger rims automatically means your stock front brakes arent enough anymore? And what does an underdrive pulley or rev limiters have to do with brakes??? :blam:
 
One other reason for brake fade is the brake fluid itself. Dot 3 and 4 attract water which causes the boiling point of the fluid to drop. We run brake fluid recirculators on our race cars cause the fluid that sits in the caliper will start to boil and it's not a good day if the car after ends up in the wall...
 
On the "why upgrade the rear brakes...waste of money" comment...

Front and Rear brakes are part of a system... You are not wasting money by upgrading the entire system on brakes...EVER!
No different than shoving a 383 SBC into a car and saying that the stock LG4 exhaust system is good enough... then wondering why its a dog.

Further, If your aftermarket front brakes are doing all the work, they will burn through pads prematurely and also likely have fatigue issues down the road if you are very hard on them... try finding some parts for many of those aftermarket custom jobs 15 years from now.

A lot of people forget this, but the rear brakes serve several purposes. They act as a friction multiplier for the fronts. They even out the braking force of the front to the rear so your car doesn't nose dive heavily (if properly operating). Finally, they are your Emergency Brakes... they are not there just to save your auto trans on hills or prevent rolling with a stick... If you lose hydraulic brake pressure for whatever reason, they are there to stop your car when you jam that Ebrake pedal down.. the better they work, the better you stop in an emergency. Its saved me twice... once in my old 84 Grand Prix when a brake line burst during a highway panic stop, & the other when my old '87 S10 pickup's MC suddenly failed.
 
Brother Al said:
Finally, they are your Emergency Brakes... they are not there just to save your auto trans on hills or prevent rolling with a stick... If you lose hydraulic brake pressure for whatever reason, they are there to stop your car when you jam that Ebrake pedal down.. the better they work, the better you stop in an emergency. Its saved me twice... once in my old 84 Grand Prix when a brake line burst during a highway panic stop, & the other when my old '87 S10 pickup's MC suddenly failed.

Very well said.
 
williamattop said:
Very well said.

X2. You can have your own opinions, But you can't have you own facts. True Facts don't care what you believe. :mrgreen:
T
 
williamattop said:
Brother Al said:
Finally, they are your Emergency Brakes... they are not there just to save your auto trans on hills or prevent rolling with a stick... If you lose hydraulic brake pressure for whatever reason, they are there to stop your car when you jam that Ebrake pedal down.. the better they work, the better you stop in an emergency. Its saved me twice... once in my old 84 Grand Prix when a brake line burst during a highway panic stop, & the other when my old '87 S10 pickup's MC suddenly failed.

Very well said.

I have seen some rear disk "upgrades" where they use a caliper without an emergency brake for ease of conversion. Like Brother Al mentioned I have also saved the car with the emergency brake when a flex hose blew
 
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