Budget suspesion tips

[Myles]

Hey guys, registered years ago but first time on the forum. Lots of good info here.

Looking for some inexpensive suspension tips, building my 81 Malibu coupe for drag only. Will run mid 12s, 355cuin 4200stall 28"slick 4.56 12 bolt from 70s chevelle. Suspension is currently stock + stock rear sway bar.

My other '83 4 door also runs 12, all stock suspesion with front sway bar removed. After over 1000 passes, the car looks twisted. Hooks but leaves real ugly.

Thanks guys,
Myles

 

[Macguyver]

The key is to improve the geometry! We have you covered. Check out our Ultimate Drag Pack or just give us a call to talk shop.
1. Weight transfer.
2. Front Roll Center.
3. Rear Instant Center.
4. Ballast.

 

[Kwik_Cutty88]

I'm currently going 12.50's on bone stock suspension. I'm talking stock control arms, stock bushings, stock sway bars, springs, shocks etc. This won't work for everyone, but you have to set a baseline somewhere. It seems like you've seen what stock suspension can do with your other car.

My car hooks very well, but does twist a slight bit. I'm looking into 90/10 shocks to tone done the front end a little bit, and possibly add a bigger rear sway bar. But I like to make small changes to see what actually makes a difference, rather than dropping a ton of money and changing everything at once.

 

[Streetbu]

Rear weld in ARB will be your best bang for the buck. Then work on the rest of your combo around that.

 

[airboatgreg]

Well what about budget stuff for a regualar driver?
I put a rear sway bar on when I did rear end and it made an incredible difference. I am planning on replacing the steering gear box with the short ratio. I have the Astro van coupler. Am thinking Bilstein shocks and just making sure everything is tight up there. I replaced springs with factory Moogs a couple years ago. I like the ride height.

 

[Myles]

I'm currently going 12.50's on bone stock suspension. I'm talking stock control arms, stock bushings, stock sway bars, springs, shocks etc. This won't work for everyone, but you have to set a baseline somewhere. It seems like you've seen what stock suspension can do with your other car.

My car hooks very well, but does twist a slight bit. I'm looking into 90/10 shocks to tone done the front end a little bit, and possibly add a bigger rear sway bar. But I like to make small changes to see what actually makes a difference, rather than dropping a ton of money and changing everything at once.

View attachment 101981

Thanks for the info, looks good. Met a guy on the forum same car as yours, we were 12.60 neck and he was actually getting the tire up 2" at that e.t with your model. I believe 4.11 4000stall but has the 700r4 with the 3.? first gear.

 

[Myles]

Thanks everyone, from everything i'v read, I'll probably start with the stock rear sway bar I have and go from there. It's a high quality 8" stall, the builder claims it will leave hard, even for 350hp+/-

 

[Myles]

Well what about budget stuff for a regualar driver?
I put a rear sway bar on when I did rear end and it made an incredible difference. I am planning on replacing the steering gear box with the short ratio. I have the Astro van coupler. Am thinking Bilstein shocks and just making sure everything is tight up there. I replaced springs with factory Moogs a couple years ago. I like the ride height.

Well what about budget stuff for a regualar driver?
I put a rear sway bar on when I did rear end and it made an incredible difference. I am planning on replacing the steering gear box with the short ratio. I have the Astro van coupler. Am thinking Bilstein shocks and just making sure everything is tight up there. I replaced springs with factory Moogs a couple years ago. I like the ride height.

Seems cool to me, I'll try my bar and also springs and 90/10s after testing. Not to hijack my own thread but very interested in what you said for steering. Actually I'd like to get a low altenator braket (no power steering pump) but the actual mechanical steering might be in the way of that. Let me know if you have any ways around it!

Will be altenator only and elect water pump. Short block going in in a few days, then I can measure and plan better.

 

[Streetbu]

If you're making a drag car, the worst thing you could do for the steering is change to a quick ratio steering box. You actually want to slow the steering down and go to a 16:1 ratio manual box if possible. Not only slower ratio, but lose weight too.

 

[lilbowtie]

Myles what are we talking about with budget? As Streetbu said a weld in sway is best vs airbag or regular sway (which doesn't stop twist) And dito the steering ratio. Boxing the frame and control arms are always a plus. Make sure your suspension works and isn't bound up. If it's a drag car a cage really ties the frame together. Lifting the front tires looks cool but you want to go forward, not up (suspension tuning). The low mount alternator will work w/ manual steering box. 350 crank hp will put you in the high 12's and I'm guessing your a little under cam'ed for the rest of your package.