caddy 500
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you can get the mounts to ake it work and i have read articles about that motor and how well they respond to bolt on parts such as headers, intake and cam. down fall(major downfall) is watching the beedle on the gas gage going down while driving!
You can get all the stuff you need here.
http://www.mtscadparts.com/
I`ve bought parts from him for my dads 70 deville and he is pretty good to deal with.
About millage, dont think it would be too bad. The old mans 6000 lb caddy with a 375 hp 472 got 17 mpg.
Put that in a lighter G body and it will be even better.
What year is the engine your getting?
These are some of the most under rated engines out there.
You can stroke the 472/500 block to 540 inches
http://www.mtscadparts.com/
I`ve bought parts from him for my dads 70 deville and he is pretty good to deal with.
About millage, dont think it would be too bad. The old mans 6000 lb caddy with a 375 hp 472 got 17 mpg.
Put that in a lighter G body and it will be even better.
What year is the engine your getting?
These are some of the most under rated engines out there.
You can stroke the 472/500 block to 540 inches
For a drop in you want an oil pan from an Eldo or an aftermarket pan from www.cadillacperformanceparts.com
For a forum check out www.cadillacpower.com/forum Do a search, lots of g-body info.
Another vendor www.cadillachighperformance.com
You can also get CAD600 shorty headers that fit the g-body. MTS has a ready made g-body motor mount kit to make it quick & simple. All the needed parts are in place and the Cad can be a great bang for the buck pump gas motor to about 500HP/600TQ. If you want more the parts are their but not the bang for the buck. Their is/was a picture galery on the web of a guy who put one in an Elcamino. I'll try to locate it if you are serious. Check out my signature & my other posts on this board.
For a forum check out www.cadillacpower.com/forum Do a search, lots of g-body info.
Another vendor www.cadillachighperformance.com
You can also get CAD600 shorty headers that fit the g-body. MTS has a ready made g-body motor mount kit to make it quick & simple. All the needed parts are in place and the Cad can be a great bang for the buck pump gas motor to about 500HP/600TQ. If you want more the parts are their but not the bang for the buck. Their is/was a picture galery on the web of a guy who put one in an Elcamino. I'll try to locate it if you are serious. Check out my signature & my other posts on this board.
if i was to put in the 500 BB there is a few things that i am thinking about such as would the stock transmission bolt up or would i have to get a new one?, would the stock rear end hold up to the power? or would it just demolish the gears, would i i need to mod the hood for the top end clearence and how much room would be left in the engine bay and would i have to put in extra supports in the frame? and what are the stock power numbers thanks for the in put and advice
It will bolt to any transmission that has the common Buick Olds Pontiac Cadillac belhousing or that has the universal chevy/BOPC bellhousing. The rear will hold her as long as you have no traction helpers regular radial tires and try no beat on her too much. But you know when have power and want to play you eventually have to pay.
Depending in part on how you set up the motor mounts and how close you get her to the firewall yes generally they fit under a stock g-body hood. I even fit one with an Edelbrock intake, (3" taller than stock intake) a Q-jet, a drop base aircleaner, & a 2 1/4" filter that had the insulation and a little braceing removed. Also I did bottom her out hard once with stock non 442 springs and the Eldo pan and she never hit the pan.
Not much less room than when she had the 307. Per one of my other posts I hooked up the factory g-body AC useing brackets off an 80/81 Cadillac 368. Extra supports are always good but not required. A 500 is only about 60 pounds heavier than an sbc or about 100 pounds lighter than a BBC. I had stock non 442 springs in my first Cutlass with an aluminum intake & the battery in the trunk with a 36mm hollow sway bar. She handled well but was soft for bumps, but then stock springs are butter soft anyway. Stiffer 442 springs (Moog) are much better or ideal (for handeling) might be the Moog 5662 and they are not expensive.
A stock low compression 500 with a good tune & just only fresh stock (weak) valve springs will make an honest 300 HP & 500 TQ on the dyno. The early stock 10-1 made about 325HP & a little over 500TQ again on the dyno and per Cad Company. 1970 factory rateings were 400HP & 550TQ but must have been done by a friendly dyno operator. With good parts selection & basic correct machine work a fairly common novice pump gas build often produces about 425HP & 525TQ from what I have noticed over the years. 500HP & 600TQ is duplicatable on pump gas with nothing exotic before the Edelbrock restrictor plate becomes hard to work around. Beyond that and you are generally out of pump gas & spending more coin than a comprable Chevy or Ford.
Note to run a sway bar especially a thicker one you may need to put washers between it and the frame and or use an oil pump from a 425/368 as they angle the oil filter which gives you more room. Also some filters provide a little more room for the sway bar. Last on mine I cut the AC box edge and fiberglassed it back in a bit to give a little extra room so that I could remove the valve cover without jacking up the motor as otherwise its snug. I had no shifter linkage issues with a 200-4r and a console shift. Steering shaft is tight on many but I had no problem with home made headers. That is every issue with the Cad in the G-body that I know of. Not a drop in but not bad either.
Any Eldo pan 1968 to 1976.
Depending in part on how you set up the motor mounts and how close you get her to the firewall yes generally they fit under a stock g-body hood. I even fit one with an Edelbrock intake, (3" taller than stock intake) a Q-jet, a drop base aircleaner, & a 2 1/4" filter that had the insulation and a little braceing removed. Also I did bottom her out hard once with stock non 442 springs and the Eldo pan and she never hit the pan.
Not much less room than when she had the 307. Per one of my other posts I hooked up the factory g-body AC useing brackets off an 80/81 Cadillac 368. Extra supports are always good but not required. A 500 is only about 60 pounds heavier than an sbc or about 100 pounds lighter than a BBC. I had stock non 442 springs in my first Cutlass with an aluminum intake & the battery in the trunk with a 36mm hollow sway bar. She handled well but was soft for bumps, but then stock springs are butter soft anyway. Stiffer 442 springs (Moog) are much better or ideal (for handeling) might be the Moog 5662 and they are not expensive.
A stock low compression 500 with a good tune & just only fresh stock (weak) valve springs will make an honest 300 HP & 500 TQ on the dyno. The early stock 10-1 made about 325HP & a little over 500TQ again on the dyno and per Cad Company. 1970 factory rateings were 400HP & 550TQ but must have been done by a friendly dyno operator. With good parts selection & basic correct machine work a fairly common novice pump gas build often produces about 425HP & 525TQ from what I have noticed over the years. 500HP & 600TQ is duplicatable on pump gas with nothing exotic before the Edelbrock restrictor plate becomes hard to work around. Beyond that and you are generally out of pump gas & spending more coin than a comprable Chevy or Ford.
Note to run a sway bar especially a thicker one you may need to put washers between it and the frame and or use an oil pump from a 425/368 as they angle the oil filter which gives you more room. Also some filters provide a little more room for the sway bar. Last on mine I cut the AC box edge and fiberglassed it back in a bit to give a little extra room so that I could remove the valve cover without jacking up the motor as otherwise its snug. I had no shifter linkage issues with a 200-4r and a console shift. Steering shaft is tight on many but I had no problem with home made headers. That is every issue with the Cad in the G-body that I know of. Not a drop in but not bad either.
Any Eldo pan 1968 to 1976.
The Cad is also lighter than the traditional Big block Chevy, and I think it comes close to equaling a small block if you just use an aluminum intake. Caddy also had a one year only set of fiberglass valve covers and oil pan that supposedly shed 25lbs. They were only on 1980 368's, and the oil pan was probably also used in 1981 as well. The 1981 valve covers were setup for the Eaton variable Displacement system and as such would be a pain to use. Some stock Cad intakes have a carb flange that sits lower than the intake ports, so you definitely would want to consider the Edelbrock intake ( or one from somewhere else). As for a transmission, any BOP automatic will work, but you will need a custom flywheel and have to have the crank drilled for a pilot bearing if a manual is preferred. I will also say that, depending on which engine you have and how you drive it, pretty much any stock g body trans will be doomed to a very short life behind that engine without modification. The U joints are also small as is the driveshaft and rear axle. If you want to really wail on it, all of those parts will eventually fail in varying degrees of severity. Turbo Regals excepted, not G body ever topped 200hp as it rolled off the assembly line. In fact, the strongest V8 was only 180hp. Just plan on upgrading these things eventually after the swap, or else you will never be able to experience the full power of your creation.
Never heard of the fiberglass valvecovers or oilpan. Thats interesting. Fiberglass oilpan? The variable displacement valvecover for the v8/6/4 were like 8"s tall and were hideous looking. Good aftermarket flywheels are available and are fairly cheap. I used the stock solid flywheel from a 500 in my 200-4r but their is a grove cut in it that runs through where its mounted that I don't like. I did not know of the aftermarket flywheel at the time but have had no trouble with it after about 9,000 brutal miles.
No doubt about the transmission and drivetrain. I started with an 8.5 rear & driveshaft and have not had to rebuild it yet but most have the 7.5 and as he said its doomed if you are going to play. A healthy 200-4r that came out of a GN/Ttype/442/MCSS will survive a lot of abuse it you just add a good shift kit such as what CKPerformance makes and a large cheap transmission cooler. Anything short of that and they are also doomed. The Cad is brutal.
No doubt about the transmission and drivetrain. I started with an 8.5 rear & driveshaft and have not had to rebuild it yet but most have the 7.5 and as he said its doomed if you are going to play. A healthy 200-4r that came out of a GN/Ttype/442/MCSS will survive a lot of abuse it you just add a good shift kit such as what CKPerformance makes and a large cheap transmission cooler. Anything short of that and they are also doomed. The Cad is brutal.
thanks for all the help im debating on the swap i know it wouldnt be that hard but i want to get it done fast and cheap. this is the engine http://salem.craigslist.org/pts/456025272.html dont worry about the color that will be gone. i really just want to do a swap that is fast easy and dosent require lots of custom fabbing. how would i find out what transmission i have in my 82 el co ive been told that it should be a turbo 350 or a 200r4 thanks again for all the help
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