Cadillac 500 Build for my 1984 Regal (LOTS OF PIX)

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If you're wondering what the small tapped holes are on the girdle between the stud holes that seem to suddenly appear on the girdle; (See explanation below, and it gives away some of the assembly photos coming up, but such is life) :wink:

It was an attempt to add a full length windage tray that was scrapped at the last second due to fastening concerns.

Here is the initial attempt at the windage tray, which seemed like a good idea at the time, but in fact, had total interference with the rod bolts.











At that point I couldn't figure out how I was going to attach the windage tray, but it was going to hold up the build if I didn't make up my mind. So I drilled and tapped some 10-32 holes in the center of the girdle (Qty 10) and said I would deal with it later. I had the girdle plated, and it was ready for assembly.











At the time the rotating assembly was being put together, I decided the way to secure the girdle was to use some 10-32 stand-offs with a hex size of 3/8. The exact height was unknown, and once calculated, unavailable. So then I went through 2 sets of stand offs, and turned them down to where I thought they would work, and realized I was still way off when I put it on the assembly. As a last resort I mocked up the assembly, and used a 1/8 shim and a 0.102" shim to get a visual reference of where the tray should be, then turned the standoffs down to exactly where I needed them. (Extra info) This number was also driven by the fact that even though the tray ended up at the height I wanted, the screw heads still interfered with the oil pan and prevented it from being bolted on.

The LS engines run their trays at a minimum of 0.080" clearance from rod bolts. My "comfortable" clearance (determined visually) turned out to be 0.450". My final stand off location made the clearance just over 0.150".

At this point, many people were concerned about the method I was using to secure the tray, and I was persuaded to omit the tray. I'll have to find a way to use 1/4" bolts on some future project. Plus my oil pan shields the sump quite well from the spinning crank.











 
Then it was time for some paint;

Cast Iron gray for the block. Its kind of hard to see.













 
Piston and rod assembly. Got to love spiro-locks!











Hanging the pistons on the crank, and setting on the pickup tube. Torque, retorque, and one more time for good measure. Lots of ARP Ultra torque lube.









 
Stuff some washers in a couple of lifters for a poor man's solid lifters. Confirm you have no play in the plunger. Stab the cam in, and see what you get for degreeing the cam, and pushrod sizing.

Find out the cam is retarded by 7*, send it back, wait 5 weeks for a new one to come in, and do it all over again. :blam: :mrgreen:











 
Get very excited about how its looking more and more like an engine, and struggle very hard to get perfect paint coverage and amazing cleanliness. (Foolishly not realizing that the second you go to fire it up, leaks etc will ensure none of that matters). :rofl:

Mock up the cylinder heads.
Test fit intake to make sure it still lines up after all the machining. CHECK!
Test fit rockers to try and determine pushroad length, and find out your brand new $1000 eye candy rockers hit the head studs and dont bolt on. :evil:
Test fit the push rods to determine length, and find out they hit the cylinder head. :evil:
Determine pushrod length and get it bang on the very first try. Priceless! :lol:
Install heads, and torque, retorque, and one lastt time for good measure.













 
Install roller cam button, front cover, oil pan and freeze plugs.
Prepare for transport to a different location to break in the engine. (Some place with no neighbors).




















Install harmonic balancer. Oil balance line from main feed oil port to rear of block. As well as the SFI Flexplate.













 
Lifters installed. Rockers installed and lashed. I took the stock "Bath tub" gasket and removed the intake gasket portion of it (keep the tub) because I will be using a composite gasket. Keeping the tub to fight oil splash onto the intake. I drilled 2 holes in the back of the tub, because with my experience in Buicks, there is always a nasty pool of oil in there. Id rather it drain back to the oil pan.

Finally, oil pump packed with petroleum jelly and installed. Intake wont go on just yet, to confirm lifters are oiling evenly. Caddys dont have water in the intake, so ita a no hassle install and removal.









 
The cadillac does not have your run of the mill firing order (18436572). Its something messed up that I will never remember, and #1 is on the passenger side. Wierd I know... So I had a couple of pieces laser cut that I will affix to the engine some how to help me remember when I am tinkering under the hood with no internet access.

Throw some accessories and pulleys on there. Mark the ZERO timing marker on the crank pulley (since this harmonic balancer and pulley dont work well together). Thermostat and t-stat housing installed, as well as the fuel pump.

Tomorrow i'll add the last few posts thatw ill bring us to the current state of this project. Exhaust, carb, and break in. Theres a couple vids of it making noise. :wink:












 
Honestly, that engine looks like jewelry-it turned out very nice. Just out of curiousity, are you going to drive this car on the street? I'm asking because it looks like there aren't going to be any emission controls on the engine that you've built, and street driving something like that in Ontario could be problematic with the Ministry of the Environment starting to enforce emission regulations more rigorously than they used to.
 
Unfortunately, Im very well aware of the MTO.

Its a 95% street duty car. Emissions controls are on the list of things to do. Luckily they seem to be more rigorous in the GTA, and not in my neck of the woods. None the less, the car will have all its emissions equipment restored at some point.
 
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