Can anyone help me to find a battery?

Thanks everybody for the advice and input. I guess what I am looking for is at least a picture of what the original battery looked like so I can match it up the best I can. Thanks again everybody! Cliff
 
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Thanks everybody for the advice and input. I guess what I am looking for is at least a picture of what the original battery looked like so I can match it up the best I can. Thanks again everybody! Cliff
One of the earliest replies provide a link for you, or just search google for "1979 delco freedom battery" and view the images tab. They look like the "topper" also posted earlier that makes a modern AGM battery "look" like the old one; at least from the top.

I doubt unless you find a company that produces a reproduction/replica with modern internals (AGM, for example) you're likely going to have to pick a modern [off the shelf] version (i.e.; AC Delco, if you want the same brand...) and just bite the bullet.
 
The original 1979 sales brochure specifies Delco freedom battery. I read a little bit on different forums for various GM cars of the era some were all black with labels some mwere white case with a black top with labels some were multi colored labels some eere rather plain. Probably as long as you go with something that’s a Delco freedom most people wouldn’t be able to argue whether it was correct or not
 
Even for show car in the restoration or survivor classes, it's know that a battery is a limited life span, and replaceable maintenance item. Kind of like tires.

Example: 1981 Trans Ams got TA Radial if Ohio, Goodyear if assembled in California kind of thing. If really going for points or being super correct, spend the money.

1978 were side post, a new thing back then. Yours should be 78 series or possibly 74 series.

The main thing you want to ensure is the ground cable is outward toward the fender, and the positive in inward toward the engine.

Factory made a mistake and they fixed it. Especially on the Camaro.

Originally they were backwards and the battery built for the passenger side tray were placed on the driver side tray. This put the positive right next to the fender. Techs would replace and not cinch down the battery and/or a crash would cause direct contact with the inner fender and short. I.e.: sparks and possible fire was the result.

One of my first jobs as newly minted ASE, 1983, was replacing batteries, ... Chicago area during a weekly snow and ice storm.
 
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As the wants come in we make. I guess let Burd foot the bill on all the digitizing.
Normally all that is built into the purchase price over the expected production run. I have no problem with paying some fees to get some of these things brought back from the dead. Really, I don't. It's just that there wasn't any other benefits given with paying the entire fee of $150 on top of the price of a topper. If it were a one-off, or I got some extra benefit for paying more, I would have totally got that. So the next guy buys a topper for ~85 bucks while I had to invest 3X the price for the same thing? That simply made no financial sense to me. Tell me what I'm missing, if I'm incorrect here. I've been wrong before. I was just kinda mad at myself for not waiting it out so I could have been that "next guy".

Your toppers are high quality and very well done. And I will continue to point people in your direction when they're looking to complete their battery visuals.
 
The toppers are $75. From me. 65 when I do a sale. I used to post specials here till I wasn’t treated very nice on this forum and left. As you see I don’t contribute or post sales here.
If you want a topper, Ames performance has them.
 

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