if you pull the CCC computer and convert to vacuum distributor, you lose Cruise Control? I did not know that! Never even heard about it over on the ECCentral forums. Good thing I haven't gotten to that point yet!
Can I remove my ODB1? (not a legal question)
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Forgot to mention: the trans convertor lock up can be activated by a toggle switch...I used to do this and just hit it when I was above 30 MPH or so. I have since put on the B&M lock up controller, which gives me the ability to dial in what speed it activates. Also added a vacuum switch so it unlocks the convertor when you tromp on it. Easy to do, you can buy the vacuum switch at Summit or Jegs. I think there's a way to retain the cruise control, as long as you supply power to the VSS (Vehicle speed sensor), but I don't remember now.
Or you could just keep the CCC and use the saved money for better projects like headers or a cam.
I think the OP is gone already. Y'all are talking to each other. 
I'm still watching here and there, but I think all my questions have been answered. At the moment I'm running a Summit 650 CFM carb, no connection to the computer or my lock up.I think the OP is gone already. Y'all are talking to each other.
Car runs fine and lock up is not that big a deal with a 305 and I'l bet by the looks and sound that it's 75% of its original efficiency. I doubt I'm loosing that much money on gas with no lock up. Once I get my new motor, and I'm looking at the Chevy HO turn key, I'll drop the computer and get a lock up kit for the trans. Other then the Check Engine Light I should be good.
Only thing is I might want the EFI. Just not sure yet.
well, it's either that or talk to the voices in our heads!I think the OP is gone already. Y'all are talking to each other.
When I had a 301 V-8 and a Turbo 350-C lockup trans I did the dash switch thing. It was very easy as the four wire connector on the side of the trans was intact. I learned that one wire is hot 12 volts and the computer just acts as a ground to enable the lockup. So I seperated the ground and ran it to a toggle switch at the dash. What I found was that at highway speed (60mph) the lockup dropped the rpms by 300 to 350. So to me that was a substantial amount and I got into the habit of leaving it off around town and locking up on the highway.
Did you ever forget to turn it off when you came down from highway speeds? What happened? Did you ever try to keep it locked up from the line?
Yes. There is an internal switch in the T-350C that only allows lockup in high gear. So it should release. I say "should" because every once in a while it would seem to stay on longer than it should while coasting and downshifting. It had 100k so maybe was a bit sticky. I left the brake pedal switch intact so it would release when the brake was applied. But when you are going up a hill or something stressful, it had no way of knowing because all the OBD-1 CCC sensors were deleted. Normally when you put your foot down the MAP sensor would tell the computer to release. You could end up lugging engine on a long steep incline. But I never came to a stop and had the engine stall because the lockup stayed on. That happened to my Mom's Oldsmobile and it stalled at every stop. I had to replace her lockup solenoid in the valve body with a superseded design.
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