Can't figure it out...

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The same thing use to happen to me. I would look at the carb. It my not be tuned in. And check for vacuum leaks
 
get rid of that edelbrock.....if you can't find the problem, then start with the carb. I vaguely remember dealing with something like this 10 years ago when i still had the 307 in the olds. one time i had the clogged converter that kept the exhaust from exiting fast enough, which you dont have....so its not exhaust. timing? well it could be timing, but when you mashed on the gas and heard the pop it cleared up, so that doesn't sound like the prob because you never touched the distributor. To me, it sounds like you should get that pos card off your car and look for an original or modded quad, or pickup a holley street avenger or something like that for driveability....they might even come in spreadbore to fit your intake...which makes for an easy install. in addition, make sure you check your fuel filter(s)....your problem is not your trans. if the car gives your problems in park, it is not the trans
 
Spacedace2000 said:
get rid of that edelbrock.....
:?

Spacedace2000 said:
or pickup a holley street avenger or something like that for driveability....
:?
 
It doesn't give me problems in park. Only in drive I heard it could be the timing as well. I just don't know I'm going to have to check out like a dozen things it seems.
 
Probably just going to take it to my mechanic and let him drive it for a few days and see if he can figure it out. This engine came from him anyway.....
 
SLICK79WGN said:
pull your valve covers and look at the rockers while it is running I had one that did the same thing and it had a flat lobe on the cam


This one gets my vote!! GM had some problems with cams back from about 75 to 80 something, Ive had 2 350s with stock cams go out on me. It should sound like someone decided through a bolt in carburator and let it rev up, when at idle it should sound fine, but while driving if its the exhaust valve then not all the exhaust can exit at same time, so as soon as the intake valve opens POP! it goes through the intake and up the carb. When the elco had this problem, it wouldnt accelerate and it sound like it was going to die, I had it stall on me and make me miss a green light, It went whatever speed it decided to and just was a hassle. With todays oils they dont have the minerals to mantain a flat tappet cam, a roller cam which is what is in every new car today dont need the minerals, so if your putting regular oil, then it probably killed the lifters which killed the lobes on the cam.
 
Could a vacuum gauge help narrow down this problem?
 
Well first off, if it was a cam going out, then pretty soon the rest of the lobes are going to get wipe out also, at idle in park, you might hear a slight ticking noise, if you do its most likely a lifter, find which side its coming from, disconnect the wires from the distributor and have some one crank the starter for about 5 seconds, dont do it to long cause you'll risk burning the starter, look for a valve spring thats not moving as much as the others, also another sign is the if the push rod can clearly move up and down, now it should turn, put you shouldnt be able to move it up and down.
 
The Edelbrock carb is not the problem, and replacing it with a POS Holley is something I would only do after smoking too much crack. It could be a number of things. A leaky intake manifold gasket, a bad vacuum booster for the brakes, even a header leak or a leaky air injection system (or the remnants thereof) can cause similar problems. Go back to basics. Use a vacuum gauge to check the health of the engine. The reading should be steady and not fluctuating wildly. If it is good, set the timing to around 10 degrees initial, and check the total timing with a dial back light or a timing tape. It should not exceed 40 degrees. If it does, or if the timing fluctuates wildly, check the advance mechanism in the distributor. If that is OK, and the timing still is erratic, check the health of the plug wires to see if they have excessive resistance. Once that is good, set the idle mixture for the highest vacuum reading. Then, set your idle speed. If it still runs like crap, I would check the header tubes with a squirt bottle and water. MIST a small amount of water on each tube and observe. If one fizzes less or more than the others, you have a problem in that cylinder. Check the plug wire for resistance, and the plug. If you have a infra red thermometer with a laser pointer (what I use), you can use that in lieu of the water test as it is more accurate. Once all these tests check out, you may wish to try a step up spring assortment in your carb. Try the stiffest spring and see if it runs better (it should be rich), then step down until you reach your optimal tune with the springs.
 
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