CUTLASS Car Off Pedal Stiff Car ON Pedal builds no pressure brake light on...IM STUMPED

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JD254

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Aug 1, 2018
19
11
3
39
Texas
I have 1986 Cutlass that brakes worked fine before i did the blazer spindle swap and installed the new calipers.the lines seem to be bled fine no issues there i have replaced the master cylinder and the brake booster and the same issue when the car is off some pressure builds up when brake pedal pumps when car is turned on pedal is a mushy as mashed potatoes for a gerber baby. Just curious what else i should look into. No visible leaks checked all hoses and cylinders. at this point its gotta be something simple i would think no about to replace proportioning valve just on a whim the same way i did the booster the master cylinder was visibly leaking. Ive never had issues bleeding any of my other older gm 80s vehicles but this one is being quite difficult. Thanks in advance.
 
Try a pressure bleeder. I put new rear lines on my 70S. It would not even pull fluid and the prop valve was functioning. It took no time at all and fluid was flowing. It will push the air right out of the system.
 
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To bleed the proportioning valve pump and hold the pedal as in regular 2 person bleeding and loosen the tubing fitting till the oil comes out. Tighten and repeat as in regular bleeding.
 
Are the bleeders at the top of the caliper? Believe it or not, I've seen calipers installed with the bleeders at the bottom more than once.
so they should be at the top? let me get home and double check if not i will switch them around...so with the brake bleeder being on the bottom the air cant escape? and on backwards obviousley lol
 
Are the bleeders at the top of the caliper? Believe it or not, I've seen calipers installed with the bleeders at the bottom more than once.
ribbed roof you are my hero i had bought the stuff for this spindle swap more than year ago and it had been sitting in garage had vacation time and got it done and never occured to me that it could be upside down and it was
 
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