Carb issues -bogging at WOT

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Clone TIE Pilot

Comic Book Super Hero
Aug 14, 2011
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Galaxy far far away
Avoid getting reman carbs, they are often rebuilt to generic specs instead of factory specs, and they often are cob together from mis-matching Qjets airhorns, bodies, and base plates. That is why many reman carbs never work right and sometiomes can't be restored back to OEM specs. Reman and rebuild are two very different processes. It is much better to rebuild your original carb back to factory specs using a high quality rebuild kit that has the proper spec parts. Many cheap rebuild kits are also generic specs instead of factory specs. The cheap parts also don't stand up to E10. In most cases you can rebush your base plate with homemade teflon bushings. If it is too worn for that, there are metal rebushing kits with special piloted drill bits. Lastly you can also take yor orignal carb to a good carb rebuilding shop who can restore the carb, rebush it, and just about anything else. You will always need to fine tune the carb after it is rebolted to your engine after it is rebuilt.
 

DEVILSorchard

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Sep 22, 2014
37
2
8
Ill keep all that info in mind when I look into a new carb I'm not sure whats on it now its a 2bbl. Timing before I set it back to 10 degrees was at 14 and had no kick back with starting it was probably set fine where it was.

This thing is dying fast on me fast but now its a lot easier to diagnose so I took it for a bit of a test session on the way home from work.
This is a definite fuel problem, I believe for one reason or another I'm not getting enough fuel in the float bowl. I noted it idles good and runs fine just off idle under low loads. Give it part throttle to accelerate chokes it right out and floor it to bring on the accelerator pump and she takes off for block or so then starts giving me that classic your out of gas surging. After that I have a hard time keeping it alive for the next few seconds like the bowl is drained.

Replaced the fuel pump and noticed the rubber inlet line was rotten enough I could pull it off by hand with the clip still in place. Replaced all the rest of the rotten lines under hood but the rear lines at the tank may end up being the culprit. I'm regretting not testing the pumps flow before I bolted it all up, swapping manifolds after work looks like quite a daunting task for one evening with how neglected the maintenance has been on this car.
 

truracer20

Master Mechanic
Feb 16, 2014
492
31
28
western PA
Try taking the inlet line off of the fuel pump and the gas cap off and blow through the line towards the tank. Some times you can have a slight blockage that doesn't completely stop flow. When you take the gas cap off does it sound like the tank is sucking air in? It shouldn't. If that checks out good I would look at the carb. The Rochester Dualjets are easy to rebuild.
 

truracer20

Master Mechanic
Feb 16, 2014
492
31
28
western PA
This is a good video of a basic Quadrajet rebuild non ccc. The 2 barrel Dualjet isn't too much different.

 

DEVILSorchard

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Sep 22, 2014
37
2
8
Watched that whole video that was very helpful.

so far fixing the vacuum lines, fuel lines and generally taking care of the neglected maintenance has helped immensity. When cold I'm still having all the problems but when shes warmed up its driving well enough with a slight hesitation at part throttle. I did find a very bent choke linkage on the dualjet where the vacuum actuator wasn't even in contact with the linkage and the electrical switch part was binding on the vacuum actuator. This would explain why I'm having to pump the gas to get it fired up. any chance this could be the cause of many of these issues Ive been having? I do recall the choke light illuminating on the dash when starting back when Id bought the car but thinking back I haven't seen it light up in months. I'm guessing it had binded on the vacuum actuator at that point.

I will be swapping to the 4bbl Qjet this weekend and thanks to that video I'm rebuilding what I can this week before I bolt it up. Thanks again for all the help on this.


 

DEVILSorchard

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Sep 22, 2014
37
2
8
At last success

Not sure what the problem actually was but replacing all rubber fuel lines with screw type clamps, blowing out the lines towards the tank, fuel filter, fuel pump, vacuum lines replaced and in their correct locations, plugs, wires, cap and rotor and fixing the bent choke linkage corrected the problem with the existing 2 bl still in place.

sometimes you just need to throw some money at it so it doesn't feel neglected I guess. Thanks to everyone that replied and all those that read this thread just to see if they could help as well.
 

truracer20

Master Mechanic
Feb 16, 2014
492
31
28
western PA
Glad you got it worked out.
 
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