My Champion 3 core fit fine and was just passable with a 403, 195 to 210 with a 160 thermostat. The 2 core with 1" tubes is similar in price and will out cool the 3 core.
Definitely nothing special with my car. It will probably end up being a .030-over 307 Olds. I've heard the 403 is similar to the 400 SBC in terms of cooling (?).
It'll be at least a few months. The 2-row is considerably cheaper. If anything I think the original might not be sufficient for the transmission on really hot days. But, if the 2-row cools better, it will take care of the engine and transmission.
I believe another member here used a 2-row for his 1984 Regal.
Here is mine in my Regal, there were no mods to make it fit but the inlet and outlet were larger than my stock 307 hoses so I had to go with a larger hose on each.
I have Intrepid fans for when I do the engine swap and will install those at that time.
What is the knob/port below the overflow hose on the passenger side tank?
Looks like the upper hose you used is for a mid-late 70's Oldsmobile. Have one coming. Not a problem, though I am leary of using mixed and matched pieces that aren't for the car.
The knob is for cars that run the heater from there to the heater core. At least Champion has a threaded plug, the cheap ones have a rubber cap that crack and blow up.
The knob is for cars that run the heater from there to the heater core. At least Champion has a threaded plug, the cheap ones have a rubber cap that crack and blow up.
Something I forgot before. These radiators are supplied with a 13lb. cap. Is this simply because most older cars ran lower pressure caps, or is it somehow recommended with these radiators?
Would assume it's dependent on the car. If this is the case, would say a stock replacement 16lb. Stant cap work? Would also assume the filler neck would be a universal design, not just one to accept their own cap.
Use the 13 pound cap. I actually use 7 pound caps on almost all my vehicles, it has big time cut down on seepage. The little bit of cooling gained doesn't warrant constantly adding a 50/50 coolant mix.
Use the 13 pound cap. I actually use 7 pound caps on almost all my vehicles, it has big time cut down on seepage. The little bit of cooling gained doesn't warrant constantly adding a 50/50 coolant mix.
I had 0 issues with the Champion for leakage, it didn't cool as well as I would have liked. Olds did every cubic inch displacement increase on the SBO by increasing the bore, so the 260 and 307 have thick cylinder walls and very few issues. The early 350's also have thicker cylinder walls and cool quite well. The 77 and later 350 and 403 have much thinner walls and the 403 has siamese walls between cylinders like a sbc 400 and an even bigger 4.351" bore. Basically the 403 for reasons mentioned and the Olds 455 with big heavy, high friction bearings and fairly thin cylinders are the majority of Olds cooling issues. I have had few issues with the 307. The only times one overheated on me when a water pump bearings exploded and another leaky water pump was drove a bunch of miles by my wife. The recored 50 year old rad, a other brand 2 core rad that cooled better than the Champion had issues. That 2 core now barely cools my 260 thanks to a ton of stop leak, leaking between the fins. I also had an aluminum plastic rad split and those stupid chrome hoses leak multiple places. If you went through as much Antifreeze as I have in the last, you would try a 7 pound cap. Don't get me started on transmission leaks, stop leak and THF fluid has helped a bunch. I should have bought stock in both Antifreeze and ATF. My point is, the 13 pound cap will work fine and put less stress on hoses and any seems for leaks. The Champion will be more than enough for your 307, which is a great reliable motor in my experience. I am planning on a .039" overbore on my 403 and a 3.5" stroke, 424 ci. I plan on using the huge nearly 35" wide with dual 1.25" cores Cold Case rad in my 70 Cutlass S for cooling. Having better airflow and a much wider rad, it should cool with ease.
I think my plan now is to see about getting the original radiator redone. It's lasted this long, I know it fits, I won't have to get an earlier model upper radiator hose, and I'll just in general know what I've got. There's a decent radiator shop in the area.
I think my plan now is to see about getting the original radiator redone. It's lasted this long, I know it fits, I won't have to get an earlier model upper radiator hose, and I'll just in general know what I've got. There's a decent radiator shop in the area.
I think my plan now is to see about getting the original radiator redone. It's lasted this long, I know it fits, I won't have to get an earlier model upper radiator hose, and I'll just in general know what I've got. There's a decent radiator shop in the area.
I personalty would have a hard time justifying spending money on a 35 year old radiator just to have adequate cooling, IMO I think this would be the time to make a worth while upgrade to a radiator that will cool better and is more durable,
I am not really sure why changing to a different radiator hose would be an issue just keep track of the part numbers.
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