Charcoal canister hard-line and quick Q.

[3XBrownCutty]

Switched to the v8 olds, so the charcoal canister from the v6 (i think thats what it is) is no longer needed. There is a hard line running back on the dr. side frame rail for the canister. Where does it go to? I really don't want to put the car up on stands, its too cold in PA now lol.


Also I had a brake line blow out right where it is bolted to the frame rail in the engine compartment. I'm gonna redo both lines so they match instead of being mis-matched. Does anyone sell those pieces pre-bent, or do I have to do the swirlygigs myself? :lol:

 

[megaladon6]

i'd keep the charcoal canister it absorbs gas vapors--safety is good--and doesn't cost any power. plus this way you don't have to plug the lines to prevent vapor build up
you can do the coils yourself, just get a coil of tube and wrap it around a piece of pipe.

 

[Blake442]

Here's what I did when I removed my vapor canister.
Unfortunately, you will have to jack up the car to get under it, but this can wait until spring, since I assume you won't be driving it this winter.

Follow the hardline down along the frame rail.
I removed it about as far back as under the drivers feet. Beyond here, it is bundled in with the other brake/fuel lines, and I didnt want to disturb them, so I pinched it off and left the remains in place.

Then, I went back to the tank.
Remove the heat shield that protects the fuel lines. From there, you can pick out the vapor line where it goes from the hard line you're no longer using, to a short section of rubber hose, then into the tank.
Pull the rubber hose off of the hard line. Put a cap over the line if you want, or just leave it. I did.

I got one of those small plastic vents that are usually used for rear axles, and shoved that into the existing rubber hose.
I secured the hose, and reinstalled the heat shield.

I have had no issues with fuel odor or leakage.

 

[3XBrownCutty]

Thanks guys. I'll surf Summit for a cheap vent then. Yeah, definitely not driving my baby this winter.

As long as I have the whole misc. question thing goin on here, might as well throw in a few more :lol:

I took the posi carrier out of the diff. i got to remove the gears since I'm not gonna run 4.56 lol. I was trying to remove the ring gear, and the first bolt I tried to get out broke :x . The diff is out of an '81 GP, I was talking to my uncle and he said some pontiacs had reverse threaded bolts in the carrier. Is this the case for my carrier?? What is the best way to remove those bolts, Impact gun??

Also, since I have the starter on the drivers side instead of the pass I have a bunch of extra wire from those pink and purple wires that go to the starter. Can I shorten those at all? Should I cut them in the middle and crimp them together, or crimp another connector to the end after I cut it to length. The reason I ask is because there are molded plastic cylinders around the wires like 5-6 in. from the end, not sure what they are or if they can be removed.

 

[86Cutlass383SR]

Those little round molded pieces are fusible links. Sorta like fuses except they are small pieces of wire that burn out before the rest of the wires. You can bundle the wires together and zip-tie them, or just cut & shorten the wires before them leaving the links in the wire. That is a safty precaution you want to leave in there.

 

[3XBrownCutty]

Yeah, I have them bundled and zip-tied now, but don't really like that and wanted to change it. Good info!

Any ideas on the carrier?

 

[86Cutlass383SR]

I've not delved into the world of rear ends much...wait, that didn't sound right...automotive rear ends...or humans...I better just shut up... LOL... :shock: 😳

 

[dan2286]

Also, since I have the starter on the drivers side instead of the pass I have a bunch of extra wire from those pink and purple wires that go to the starter. Can I shorten those at all? Should I cut them in the middle and crimp them together, or crimp another connector to the end after I cut it to length. The reason I ask is because there are molded plastic cylinders around the wires like 5-6 in. from the end, not sure what they are or if they can be removed.

Just get the engine harness from a 307 powered g body. It's just one bolt at the bulk head connector and just unplug the rest. It will be the most reliable way of doing it. When you shorten wires like that, it just gives another place for corrosion to start and possibly cause problems later on. If you do decide to shorten them, don't use butt connectors, the best way is to solder them.

 

[Bonnewagon]

Yes, the ring gear bolts are reverse threaded. Get the rest out and drill/easy-out the broken one. Be patient as they are Grade 8 hardened. I would leave the charcoal canister alone. It collects vapors from your gas tank and carb fuel bowl and burns them up when the car starts. Ditto the soldering.

 

[Blake442]

Don't bother wasting your money at Summit, you can get one at your local GM dealer for just a few dollars.

This is all it is, just a little piece of plastic. The one I got we happened to have laying around at work, so I swiped it...

GM #8640496
I can't get the picture to work, so here's the link for a picture...
http://xse.com/leres/ss/vent.html