Cheap roof repair. wondering if it will work.

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That's hardly a cheap roof repair for a matte back semi-rat rod.
Lazarus, take a look at the other roof supports with the headliner down. The factory would use low density expanding foam to fill the void between the roof and supports. Keeps the metal from vibrating at speed and warping from the heat.

Post up some pics to see how it turned out.
I just did a similar ( though not as bad ) repair on my '03 DD. Astro/Safaris rot in front of the PS rear wheel. I used a cutoff wheel and cut halfway up to the bodyline. Patched in a new panel, pop rivits to the wheelwell and panel bond under the good steel at the top with a couple sheet metal screws to hold it in place until the bond cures. Took the screws out and used Bondo glass to seal it up and get the repair close. The parts house matched the paint 95% and if I had bothered to blend it into the side door it would have matched better. I figure with a coat of dirt it will not be noticed by 99% of the people on the road.

Is it a 100% repair, hell no. But I think it will hold up just fine for at least a few more years. Your repair should as well

When it comes to body work, nothing is cheap. Body repair is the most difficult and expensive types of repair on a car. Even a ratrod needs to be structurally sound. I have a Regal that used to be a vinyl top with some rust damage to the roof seams. I did a repair similar to the OP, and it failed in less than a year. Broke down and bought the expensive tools and supplies to perform a proper repair and no failures. Cheap repairs only end up costing you more in the long run. Do it right the first time.
 
Taking it all in. Thanks for the input! Granted yes to do it proper would to replace entire roof. But by the time I gained all the tools and a new roof Id far exceed the value of the car. Stated in the beginning. The previous owner said the salvage yard flat bed would arrive at 4pm. So I drove 80 mph with a trailer to rescue this car. Lol so this is a ultra cheap build. Some of us have no kids and access to large sums to build 8 second dragsters. But I'm not one of those. If I were I would find a southern low mileage car around the 4/5 grand mark.

That being said today I removed the rust. Trying different settings on my garbage welder. Even a bunch of tiny tacks would work. Also may add a support to help it from flexing. But I'll keep updating on my progress. Least if I'm acting like an idiot "having a good time" and she goes into Ditch im only out maybe 1500 bucks. Other guys might granny their $25000.00 investment but um that's not this cars pourpose......just to buy a proper mig welder i would need a new service, breaker box and rewire half the house lol
 

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Maybe checking out a pick a part to cut off a good roof. I know I yard in past the Clearview mall on 308 W. Sunbury in Butler Co. that has some cars. But the ride might be too long. It's called Renick's & they have been pretty fair on prices. Haven't been there in some time. There was one down your way that did have a ton of cars years back but I can't remember that yards name.
 
Taking it all in. Thanks for the input! Granted yes to do it proper would to replace entire roof. But by the time I gained all the tools and a new roof Id far exceed the value of the car. Stated in the beginning. The previous owner said the salvage yard flat bed would arrive at 4pm. So I drove 80 mph with a trailer to rescue this car. Lol so this is a ultra cheap build. Some of us have no kids and access to large sums to build 8 second dragsters. But I'm not one of those. If I were I would find a southern low mileage car around the 4/5 grand mark.

That being said today I removed the rust. Trying different settings on my garbage welder. Even a bunch of tiny tacks would work. Also may add a support to help it from flexing. But I'll keep updating on my progress. Least if I'm acting like an idiot "having a good time" and she goes into Ditch im only out maybe 1500 bucks. Other guys might granny their $25000.00 investment but um that's not this cars pourpose......just to buy a proper mig welder i would need a new service, breaker box and rewire half the house lol

I'm all about building on a tight budget. I know your struggle. You might be able to get that flux core welder turned down enough to not burn through. I agree with you about building a car to really drive and not baby around. I wish I knew more about body work so I could give you some advice but at this point I've cut a lot more body panels out than I've ever put in. Lol. (I work at a salvage yard and when we sell a quarter panel, etc. I'm usually the guy who cuts it out. The mixed blessings of owning a good cordless Sawzall. Lol)
 
I'm all about building on a tight budget. I know your struggle. You might be able to get that flux core welder turned down enough to not burn through. I agree with you about building a car to really drive and not baby around. I wish I knew more about body work so I could give you some advice but at this point I've cut a lot more body panels out than I've ever put in. Lol. (I work at a salvage yard and when we sell a quarter panel, etc. I'm usually the guy who cuts it out. The mixed blessings of owning a good cordless Sawzall. Lol)

THANKS! Not to get too personal on here but the 86 Olds holds alot of meaning. Got a uncle with a debilitating illness. He owned a patched up 86 we all dubbed "The war machine" . Had an actual W30 455. Grew up in the backseat with Quiet Riot, Tesla, Cinderella. Held my first doob and felt my first boob. So I'm trying to get done on the cheap to take him out in. He still talks about busting the frame to "Bang your head" lol little out of my league but thanks!
 
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You can buy a reconditioned name brand welders for much cheaper than a buying new at a store. You can get a name brand 110 volt mig with gas provision and cold start for under $400. I am on a tight budget too which is why I bought a HF shielding gas tank but fixing old cars is not a cheap hobby. Some stuff is just going to be expensive and doing cheap repairs now only ends up costing more money later when it fails and you have to do the correct repair anyway. Been there done that. A car you really want to drive needs to be in safe condition and not take shortcuts on structural strength. The roof is a load bearing member that is under stress and flexes alot, you do not want to halfass it there. You will only end up going back to fullass it. At the very least you need a welder with cold start. Even a professional weldor will have a hard time with a welder that lacks cold start.
 
You can buy a reconditioned name brand welders for much cheaper than a buying new at a store. You can get a name brand 110 volt mig with gas provision and cold start for under $400. I am on a tight budget too which is why I bought a HF shielding gas tank but fixing old cars is not a cheap hobby. Some stuff is just going to be expensive and doing cheap repairs now only ends up costing more money later when it fails and you have to do the correct repair anyway. Been there done that. A car you really want to drive needs to be in safe condition and not take shortcuts on structural strength. The roof is a load bearing member that is under stress and flexes alot, you do not want to halfass it there. You will only end up going back to fullass it. At the very least you need a welder with cold start. Even a professional weldor will have a hard time with a welder that lacks cold start.
Keep forgetting about them small 110v migs. May try a few pawn shops and Craig's list.
 
G bodies are made out of fairly thin metal so you don't need loads of power for most repairs on them. Even the frame is just 15 gauge, well under the max limit for most 110v machines.
 
Cut out the old rusty parts make patch panels. Weld then in. Keep the bond as thin as posible. You should have no problems
 
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