Chevy 350 engine ratings by year..

Status
Not open for further replies.

slick843

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jul 23, 2009
17
0
0
Fayetteville, NC
I just bought a 1985 Buick Regal and Im about to do Chevy 350 swap. I found a guy that has a 350 that he pulled from a 1974 Chevy truck. It has 59,000 miles on. Does anyone know the hp/tq ratings of those trucks and would it be a good 350 to swap into my Regal?
 
heads are crap. small valves. just ok for low end, but with a good set of heads and a cam swap you'll be in good shape. that should be a 4 bolt main block with a pretty decent nickel content, so it'll be a good block to build, but as a drop in and go motor, you'll find yourself wanting more.
 
It may be an LM1- the lowest power 350 4bbl of them all. Only the 2 bbl 350 of those years was worse. I think the rating may be about 160-170hp for the 4 bbl and about 145hp for the 2 bbl. The compression ratio is optimistically rated at 8.5:1, but the reality is more like 7.8:1. The pistons are dished, so even with small chamber heads it will still be detonation prone due to the lack of quench. Yes, the heads are crap, but so is the cam. However, it is a Chevy 350, so it will respond well to the proper choice of parts.
 
I figure somewhere in the realm of 150-175hp/225-275ft. lbs. I don't have anything to back it up unfortunately, but unless it's a performance engine that's where most of them sat.
 
Thats not much for a V8 but its a start. The stock V6 motor and transmission has already been pulled. Just waiting till the Chevy 350 motor and Th350 transmission install to be completed. Any suggestions on upgrades? So far, I have a Holley 650 4bbl carb.
 
There are plenty of websites that give you a breakdown according to the block #. I would run the numbers to be safe, stay away from any motors made in mexico.
 
If you're sticking with the stock heads, you can go with a small cam and get a bit more performance, just be sure to a)read up a lot on breaking in a cam, or b)have someone there that's done it before. Also intake/headers/exhaust are always good for performance 😀
 
84cutspreme said:
There are plenty of websites that give you a breakdown according to the block #. I would run the numbers to be safe, stay away from any motors made in mexico.

Google Mortec, they have some listings.
As a side, see if you can swing a OD trans if you want to retain any sort of fuel mileage. If you don't go crazy on power, a stock 2004r or 700 should work. I just sold a very powerful Olds with a th350. Loved the car, but always wanted that OD in it. Alas, ran out of $$.
 

Attachments

  • IMAG1269.jpg
    IMAG1269.jpg
    931.5 KB · Views: 237
2004Rs came stock in some G-Bodies, meaning you could get a stock driveshaft for it. Plus the 1-2 rpm drop isn't as drastic as a 700R4/4L60. Lockup is also easy to wire up, a simple vacuum switch & relay should suffice, you could also wire in an adjustable temperature switch if you don't want lockup until it warms up a little. The vacuum switch only engages the tcc while cruising, and the relay goes to the brake light switch to disengage it when you have the brakes applied.
 
Decided to go with the Edelbrock performer package from Jegs. It has the carb, cam, and manifold. I also plan on getting the Edelbrock Victor Jr. cylinder heads. About how much hp would I gain from these parts?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor